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THE MISSIONS OF 
CALIFORNIA 




RACINE McROSKEY 



THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 




SAN CARLOS DE BORROMEO. 
"The San Carlos Mission was Fr. Junipero's own charge.' 



THE MISSIONS OF 
CALIFORNIA 

WITH SKETCHES OF 

THE LIVES OF ST. FRANCIS AND 

JUNIPERO SERRA 



BY 



RACINE McROSKEY 



AUTHOR OF DRIFT C DREAMS" 



ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 




I.A COFA DE ORO 



SAN FRANCISCO 
THE PHILOPOLIS PRESS 

M D C M X I V 






COPYRIGHT 1914 

BY 

THE PHILOPOLIS PRESS 



^/A< 



..JL-- 



SAN FRANCISCO. CALIFORNIA 



FOREWORD. 




~aOR many years I ha\-e been deeply interested in the study of 
the Missions of California, and have grown to reverence every 
noble structure and every pathetic ruin. They are today 
California's richest heritage. I have visited them at every 
opportunity, and delved deeply into their golden history. Many old 
inhabitants have given me interesting facts and bits of history. 

Most sincere thanks must be given the many historians, from whose 
books I have gleaned; the poets whose gems grace the pages; the Sunset 
Publishing Company and the Edw. H. Mitchell Company, whose beautiful 
pictures I am permitted to reproduce. 

R. McR. 



CONTENTS. 

Page 
St. Francis --------- ----i 

Fr. Junipero Serra ----------- g 

San Diego de Alcala ----------- 2^ 

San Carlos Borromeo ----------- 29 

San Antonio de Padua ----------- t^-j 

San Gabriel Arcangel ----------- 43 

San Luis Obispo ------------ ^g 

San Francisco de Asis ---------- ^g 

San Juan Capistrano -----------63 

Santa Clara de Asis ----------- ji 

San Buenaventura ------------ -j-j 

Fr. Serra and Current Events --------- 83 

Santa Barbara- ------------ gj 

La Purisima Concepcion ---------- g-j 

Santa Cruz ------------- 103 

La Soledad ------------- m 

San Jose de Guadalupe - - - - - - - - - - -115 

San Juan Bautista ----------- 121 

San Miguel Arcangel - - - - - - - - - - -127 

San Fernando, Rey de Espagna -------- 133 

San Luis, Rey de Francia ---------- i3g 

Santa Inez ------------- 147 

San Rafael Arcangel - - - - - - - - - - -153 

San Francisco Solano - ---------- i^g 

Mission Chapels or Asistencias - - - - - - - - -165 

An Indian Lament ----------- i-ji 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Page 
"The San Carlos Mission was Fr. Junipero's own charge" - Frontispiece 

"No limit to his endurance, or bound to his desires" - - - - lo 

"The present site was chosen, six miles up the valley" - - - - 24 

"It is still beautiful standing out in the fields, deserted and alone" - 38 

"The mission church is constructed of stones and cement" - - - 44 

"The first roof-tiles were made at this Mission" ----- 50 

"The oldest mission church, or ruins thereof, now in existence" - - 56 

"The American Alhambra" --------- 64 

"The corridors — cool and rose perfumed" -------67 

"Crops of both grain and fruits were exceedingly fine" - - - 72 

"The Mission grew rapidly, and its flocks and herds increased" - - 78 

"The one grey fortress that never surrendered" ----- 84 

"The beautiful gardens, with their variety of tropical plants and palms" 92 

"A view of the valley stretched down to the ocean" - - - - gS 

"The Mission reached its greatest glory in 1830" ----- 104 

"Being inland, it was ofttimes named as a place of refuge" - - 112 

"From the East it was the first Mission reached by the trapper"- - 116 

"An old olive press" ----------- iiq 

"The church and its gardens are well cared for and beautiful" - - 122 

"Its interior decoration is the finest of all the missions" - - - 128 

"The Mission was noted for its excellent iron and silver work" - - 134 

"No other mission had so fine a church" ------ 141 

"The old and beautiful Mission is still in use" ------ 148 

"The sheltering hills sloping down towards the bay" - - - - 154 

"There were many Russians at the founding" - - - - - - 160 

"The Bells of Pala" ---------- 166 



PRONUNCIATION. 

There can be no rigid rule for the pronunciation of proper 
nouns. 

Generally, names ending in a consonant accent the last syllable; 
as, Lasuen, Duran, Real. The exception to above are names 
ending in as and cz, which accent the syllable before the last; 
as, Galvez, Callejas, Payeras. 

Names ending with a vowel usually accent the syllable before 
the last; as, Moraga, Altimira, Alegre. 

For the benefit of readers not familiar with the Spanish 
language, proper names liable to be mispronounced, have been 
accented. 

Vowels in Spanish are pronounced: 
a, as a — example arm. 
e, as a — example day. 
i, as e — example me. 
o, as 6 — example lot. 
u, as oo — example good. 



OUTLINE MAP OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA 
SHOWING LOCATION OF MISSIONS. 



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ST. FRANCIS. 



THE 

MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 




ST. FRANCIS. 

jBOUT eighty miles north of Rome, in a singularly 
picturesque region of central Italy, built upon a 
steep hill, is situated the city of Assisi (As-se-ze). 
It is surrounded by a wall, flanked with towers, 
and o^'erhung by lofty citadels in ruins. Assisi 
occupies the site of the ancient Roman city Assisium, and pre- 
sents the remains of the forum, the baths and the aqueducts of 
the days of the Romans. 

(1182). It is the birthplace of St. Francis, who was the 
founder of the order of mendicants that bears his name, and the 
home of the first monastery, the Con^■ento Sacro, a large and 
beautiful structure, and one of the earliest specimens of the 
Gothic style of architecture in Italy. 

The baptismal name of the saint was Giovanni, but his father 
Pietro Bernardone, who was a rich merchant, gave him the sur- 
name of 'Trancisco" out of his predilection for France, with 
which countr}' he had an extensive trade. His mother was of 
the noble family of Pica, and a woman of gentle piety and noble 
character. 

Giovanni was well and carefully raised, and at the early age of 
fourteen was taken into business by his father. After ten years 



4 THE MISSIOXS OF C ALIFORM A 

of the pursuit of business, well mixed with the social pleasures of 
the day, there came a time of deep meditation, and after long pon- 
dering he abandoned his old friends and haunts, and returning 
all his belongings, even to his clothing, to his father, he embraced 
a life of rigid penance and utter poverty. 

His object was to lead a life as near as possible modeled after 
that of Christ, and by absolute renunciation of the world to attain 
evangelical perfection. He retired to a hermitage called "Le 
Carceri" near Assisi, and gave himself up to penance and pro- 
found meditation on the sufferings of Christ, for a long time. 

Coming out again, he was filled with a great enthusiasm and 
happiness. It is recorded that during the months when 
St. Francis went up and down the streets of Assisi, carrying in his 
delicate, unused hands the stones for rebuilding the Saint Dam- 
iano's chapel, he was continually singing psalms, breaking forth 
into ejaculations of gratitude, his face beaming as that of one who 
saw visions of unspeakable delight. 

How much of the spirit or instinct of prophecy there might 
have been in his exultant joy, only he himself knew. But it 
would seem strange if there had not been vouchsafed to him some 
partial revelation of the splendid results which would follow the 
carrying out in the world of the divine impulses which had blazed 
up in his soul. His austerities and simple eloquence soon at- 
tracted attention, and it was not long before others, drawn by 
his ardent example, sought to follow in his steps and join with 
him in his austere mode of life. 

It is certain that very early in his career Francis had the pur- 
pose of founding an order, whose members, being utterly un- 
selfish in life, should be fit heralds of God and mighty helpers of 
men. His first companions were fellow townsmen, Bernard of 
Quintavalle, a rich and noble layman, and Peter of Catana, a 
canon of the cathedral. 



ST. FRAXCIS 5 

After much entreaty the church gave its sanction to the 
"Seraphic Saint's" band of "Fratri ]\Iinores," or lesser brothers, 
and the organized work of the Pranciscan Order began. That 
was in the 3'ear 1208, and from then until now the Franciscans 
have been, in the Hteral sense of the word, "helpers of men." 
Other orders of the Catholic Church have won more distinction 
in the way of learning, political power, marvelous suffering of 
penances and deprivations; but the record of the Franciscans is 
in the main a record of lives and work like the life and work of 
their founder. 

The rule which St. Francis prescribed for his followers con- 
sisted of the gospel counsels of perfection, to which he added 
some things necessarj- to the uniformit}- of their manner of life. 
He exhorts his brethren to manual labors, but will have them con- 
tent to receive for it things necessary for life, not money. He 
bids them not to be ashamed to beg alms, remembering the pov- 
erty of Christ, and forbids them to preach in any place without 
the bishop's license. 

There were twenty-seven precepts in the rule laid down for 
the order, all of which were declared by several pontiffs as bind- 
ing on the friars of the order, under pain of mortal sin. They 
described the carrying out of the vows of poverty, chastity and 
obedience ; regulated the dress to be worn ; ordered that the friars 
go barefoot; specified feasts and enjoined a blind, unlimited 
obedience to superiors. 

The habit he gave them was a dull grey gown of coarse cloth 
with a pointed capouch, or hood, one under tunic and drawers, 
and a cord around the waist. The costume closely resembled 
that worn by poor shepherds in that part of Italy. Among 
other things he said: — 

"Let your behaviour in the world be such that everyone who 
sees or hears you may praise the Heavenly Father." 



6 THE MISSIOXS OF CALIFORNIA 

"Preach peace to all; but have it in your hearts still more than 
on your lips." 

"Give no occasion of anger or scandal to any, but by your 
gentleness lead all men to goodness, peace and union." 

"We are called to heal the wounded and recall the erring, for 
there are many who appear to you as limbs of the devil, who will 
one day be disciples of Jesus Christ." 

In I2IO St. Francis sought confirmation of his rule of the 
Sovereign Pontiff Innocent III. At first he rejected the saint's 
petition and St. Francis humbly withdrew to solitary prayer. 
That night the pontiff dreamed of a palm springing up at his feet 
that waxed until it became a great tree. The impression grew 
vividly upon him that the palm signified the poor petitioner, so 
he ordered search made for him and he was found and brought. 
The Pope declared that he had seen the Lateran Basilica 
falling and held up b}- one despised man who set his back 
against the wall and propped it. "Truly," said he, "here is 
that man who by his work and teachings will sustain the 
Church of Christ." 

Some years later St. Francis drew up the rule in more com- 
pendious form, and it was solemnly ratified by Honorius III. in 
1223. The sanction of Innocent III. in 1210 had been a verbal 
assent. As St. Francis felt the approach of death, he longed to 
suft'er humiliation as had the Son of God on earth, so he chose 
for his place of burial the "Infernal Hill," then outside the city 
of Assisi, because there, the great malefactors were put to death 
and buried. 

Saint Francis died in 1226, and was canonized by Pope Ciregory 
IX. on July i6th, 1228, in St. George's church. The following 
day the Pope went in great pomp to the "Infernal Hill," changed 
its name to the "Hill of Paradise," and laid the first stone of the 
church and convent in honor of the newly canonized St. Francis. 



ST. FRAXCrS 7 

When the cnpt was finished the sacred remains were placed 
therein. 

The church of St. Francis is completely made of small mosaics, 
and has most magnificent arches. All the Fathers of the church 
wear white. 

After the death of St. Francis, the next minister-general of 
the entire order was Elias, of Cortona, an ambitious, restless, 
tyrannical man. He relaxed some of the stern rules, and con- 
troversy arose, and the order was divided into Conventionals 
and Observantines. As the names imply, the Conventionals 
accept the lighter rules and conventions, while the Observant- 
ines held to the first rigorous rules. 

No Order of the Church has surpassed the zeal of the Fran- 
ciscans, and to them much credit for the discovery of America 
must be given, as Fr. Juan Perez de Marchena, guardian of a 
convent near Seville and a learned cosmographer, entered warmly 
into the plans of Columbus and greatly influenced Queen 
Isabella, whose confessor he had been, to fit out the expedition 
of 1492. Within a year or two, Fr. Juan himself came to 
Amersca and opened the first Christian church in the new 
world, at a small settlement in Hayti. As early as 1342, or 
one hundred and fifty years before the discovery of America, 
the guardianship of the Holy Places in Jerusalem was committed 
to the Order, and they still retain it. 



FR. JUNIPERO SERRA. 




JUNIPERO SERRA 

*'No limit to his endurance, or bound to his 




FR. JUNIPERO SERRA. 

)HE greatest and most wonderful disciple of St. 
Francis was Junipero Serra. He was born of 
lowly people, on the island of Majorca in 1712, 
and while a little child sang in the choir of the 
Convent of San Bernardino. At the early age 
of sixteen he entered the Franciscan order, and before he was 
eighteen, he had taken the final vows. On becoming a monk 
his baptismal name of Michael Joseph was laid aside, and he 
chose the name "Junipero," after that quaintest and drollest 
of all St. Francis' early followers. 

The Franciscan College of Santa Barbara holds as a treasure 
an old daguerreotype taken from a portrait of Fr. Serra, painted 
more than one hundred years ago at the College of San Fernando, 
in Mexico. 

Having once seen the face you could never forget it. There 
is expressed a world of tenderness, spirituality and unutterable 
pathos. The mouth and chin are delicately sensitive, the fore- 
head and eyes strong, radiant with quenchless purpose, but filled 
with that solemn, yearning, almost superhuman sadness which 
is the sign and seal on the faces of men born to die for the sake of 
their fellows. There is a great likeness between the face of 
Fr. Junipero Serra and St. Francis. The small and delicate 
features, the broad forehead, and the expression of great tender- 
ness, are the same in both. But the Saint had a joyousness that 
his illustrious follower never knew. 



12 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

Studying in the Convent of Majorca, at the time Junipero 
Serra entered, were three other young monks — Paloii, Verger 
and Crespi. The four became intimate and affectionate com- 
panions and this friendship had much to do with the success of 
the great enterprise in which, afterwards, they jointly labored, 
and to which even in their student days they looked forward 
with passionate longing. 

At Cadiz, in 1749, there assembled a great body of missionaries 
destined chiefly for Mexico, and Palou and Serra were given per- 
mission to join the band. When they arrived at Cadiz, two 
vacancies were found and Palou and Serra pleaded that Crespi 
and Verger be allowed to join them. From the beginning the 
four friends had longed ardently to be sent to New Spain as 
missionaries. 

Thus it happened that they set sail, joyful, in the same ship. 
The long voyage of ninet}'-nine days to Vera Cruz, was full of 
every hardship. Starvation threatened, and storms beat the 
ship, but through it all Father Junipero's courage never failed. 
After their arrival in Me.xico, Serra and his companions were 
kept at work for nineteen years, under the guidance and 
control of the College of San Fernando, in founding missions 
and preaching. 

On the suppression of the Jesuit Order in 1767, and its conse- 
quent expulsion from all the Spanish dominions, it was decided 
to send a body of Franciscans to take charge of the Jesuit mis- 
sions in Lower California. No attempt had ever been made, 
so far, toward settlement in Upper California. 

Once more three of the friends, glad and exultant, joined a 
missionary band bound for new wildernesses. Verger remained 
behind as Guardian of the College of San Fernando. The band 
numbered sixteen, and Serra was put in charge of it, and was 
appointed "President of all the California Missions." 



FR. JUNIPERO SERRA 13 

It now became the purpose of Spain to proceed as soon as 
possible with the colonization of Upper California. This occu- 
pation was hastened by the threatening encroachments of the 
Russians, who from 1741 to 1767 had been sending exploring 
expeditions from Alaska southward along the coast. The pro- 
posed occupation was to be spiritual as well as military. 

In those days the passion of the Church allied itself gladly 
with the purpose of the State, and the latter had many states- 
men and soldiers of fervid religion. Such a one was Jose de 
Galvez, who held the office of visator-general and commandante, 
representing the person of the King, and inspecting the workings 
of the government in every province of the Spanish empire. 
Upon him rested the practical organization of the first expedition 
into Upper California. He was selected to lead to San Diego, 
and afterwards press on to the lost Monterey, at both of which 
places it was decided to establish missions, with a third at some 
intermediate point. 

This first expedition was divided into two parts; one to go by 
sea, and the other by land. The sea party in two ships — the 
"San Carlos" and the "San Antonio;" and the land party in two 
divisions. The sea expedition was placed under the patronage 
of San Jose (Saint Joseph), — foster-father of our Lord, who was 
the provider for all His needs, as well as those of the Virgin, His 
mother. 

Galvez ordered the carrying of all sorts of seeds, — vegetables, 
grains and flowers. Everything that would grow in Old Spain 
he ordered planted in the New. He ordered that two hundred 
head of cattle should be taken from the northern-most Mission 
of Lower California to the new posts. He also packed, with 
his own hands, many sacred ornaments and vessels for church 
ceremonies. 

The activity, enthusiasm and generosity of Galvez were inex- 



14 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

haustible, and he had humor as well, for when discussing the 
names of missions to be founded, Fr. Junipero said to him, 
"But is there to be no mission for our Father Saint Francis?", 
he replied, "If Saint Francis wants a mission let him show us 
his post and we will put one there for him." 

Every possible provision and precaution were thought of by 
the wise Galvez, but nothing could prevent the journey from 
being a terribh' hard one. Fr. Junipero, with his characteristic 
ardor, insisted on accompanying one of the land parties, 
although he suffered from an old wound on the leg, and the second 
day out he was helpless. 

Claspar de Portola, the military commander of the party, 
begged him to be carried in a litter, but this he would not brook, 
so he called a muleteer to him, and begged to be treated as one 
of his beasts. The muleteer then mixed herbs, and with tallow, 
made an ointment, and applied it to the wound. The pain was 
relieved, and the results so good, that the Father could proceed 
on his journey the next day. 

They had set out on their journey on March 24, 1769, and it 
was not until the 13th of May that the first land party reached 
the crest of the high land, and had their first view of the Bay of 
San Diego, and saw the masts of the ships lying at anchor there. 
As soon as the San Diego camp was reached great joy filled every 
heart. The friars who had come by sea ran to meet and embrace 
their brethren. 

Six weeks later the second land party, with Junipero Serra 
arrived, eager to proceed to the establishment of the Mission. 
Sickness delayed this until on the i6th of July, 1769, a cross was 
raised, and mass was sung in a rude booth of branches and reeds. 
For want of an organ, fire-arms were discharged, and thus was 
founded the Mission of San Diego de Alcala, and the la}-ing of 
the cornerstone of the civilization of California. 



FR. JUXIPERO SERRA 15 

The primary object of Fr. Serra and his coadjutors in founding 
the missions, was, of course, the con\ersion of the Indians to 
Christianity. To accomplish this the Indians must be baptized 
and instructed, and remo\ed from the example and influence of 
their uncon\'erted brethren. This course led to the formation 
of the mission communities. Of course, one can easily see that 
the most pressing problems confronting the Fathers was the ren- 
dering of these communities self-supporting. Thus, also, one 
can see that the early buildings of the missions were of necessit}-, 
and long remained, of a purely temporar}' character. 

Two days after the founding of San Diego, the indefatigable 
Crespi with Portola set out on another overland march to find 
Monterey, but were unsuccessful, and after much suffering re- 
turned to San Diego, after six months of toil and hardship. Upon 
their return they found Fr. Serra and his little band in sore 
straights. There had been much sickness and starvation threat- 
ened. Portola announced his decision to abandon the enterprise 
and return to Mexico. Fr. Serra pleaded and begged a little 
more time for pra}'er and solicitation, and that very day, as the 
sun was setting, the long expected ship "San Antonio," with 
abundant supplies, arrived in the bay. 

Under the heading of each mission will be found a chapter 
giving, in greater detail the vital and more interesting data per- 
taining to each of these wonderful structures. 

The history of the next fifteen years is one of struggle, hard- 
ship and heroic achie\Tment. Fr. Serra was the mainspring and / 
support of it all. There seemed no limit to his endurance or 
bound to his desires; nothing daunted his courage or chilled his 
sublime faith. 

There were nine missions founded by him before his death on 
August 28, 1784. In order: San Diego, July 16, 1769; San Carlos 
de Borromeo, June 3, 1770; San Antonio de Padua, July 14, 1771 : 



1 6 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

San Gabriel Arcangel, September 8, 1771; San Luis Obispo, 
September i, 1772; San Francisco de Asis, October 9, 1776; San 
Juan Capistrano, November i, 1776; Santa Clara, January 12, 
1777; and San Buenaventura, March 31, 1782. Fr. Serra was 
not personally present at the founding of San Gabriel, San Fran- 
cisco and Santa Clara. 

It is a bit of news to many students to know that of all the mis- 
sion churches now standing, or even ruins thereof, Fr. Serra saw 
none. The cornerstone of the oldest of these, that of St. Francis, 
in San Francisco, not having been laid until April 25, 1782, and 
being unfinished Alay 4, 1784, when he last visited that Mission. 

The mission Fathers have been justly praised for the excel- 
lence of their judgment in the selection of the sites chosen for 
their missions. To this wisdom may be attributed their rapid 
growth and wonderful prosperity. At every mission there were 
walled gardens with waving palms, sparkling fountains, groves 
of olive trees, broad vineyards and orchards of all manner of 
fruit. 

In course of time the guardianship exercised over the converted 
Indians developed into a mild form of sla\'ery, which alone per- 
mitted of the construction and maintenance of the missions. 
By such labor the works for irrigation were constructed, fences 
and corrals built, the land tilled, crops sown and harvested, 
flocks and herds cared for, and the numerous buildings necessary 
for such a community built, maintained and improved. 

Nevertheless the rule of the friars was in the main a kindly 
one. The vice of drunkenness was severely punished by flogging. 
Quarreling between husbands and wives was also dealt with sum- 
marily. The offending parties were chained together by the leg 
until they were glad to promise to keep peace. 

In a comparatively short time the good friars had transformed 
savages into masons, carpenters, plasterers, soap-makers, tan- 



FR. JUMPERO SERRA 17 

ners, shoe-makers, blacksmiths, millers, bakers, cooks, brick- 
makers, carters and cart-makers, weavers, spinners, saddlers, 
ship hands, agriculturalists, herdsmen and vintagers. 

In all the missions were buildings on a large scale, providing 
for hundreds of occupants for all the necessary trades and manu- 
factures, and many of the ornamental arts of civilized life. 
Enormous tracts of land were under high cultivation, the grain 
and cool fruits of the temperate zone flourished side by side with 
the palm, olive, grape, fig, orange and pomegranate. 

From the two hundred head of cattle sent by the wise Galvez, 
had grown herds past numbering, and to these had been added 
vast flocks of sheep and herds of horses. 

The friars were forced, on account of their situation, into the 
exercise of a constant and abounding hospitalit}-, and this they 
discharged most royally. Travelers' rooms were kept always 
ready at every mission. The guest was served with the best of 
food and wine as long as he would stay, and on leaving was 
offered a fresh horse to continue his journey. All the California 
travelers and voyagers speak in glowing terms of this generous 
and cordial treatment of the friars. 

Did you ever pause to think what a difference there was a 
hundred years ago, between the atmosphere of life on the east 
and west sides of the American continent? On the Atlantic 
shore the descendants of the Puritans, weighed down by serious 
purpose, half grudging the time for their one staid yearly Thanks- 
giving, and driving the Indians further and further into the 
wilderness ever}' year, fighting and killing them. 

On the sunn}' Pacific shore the merr}' people of Mexican and 
Spanish blood, troubling themselves about nothing, dancing 
away whole days and nights like children, while their priests were 
gathering the Indians by thousands into communities, and feed- 
ing and teaching them. 



i8 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

Mission after mission had been founded until, in 1804, the Hne 
extended from San Diego to San Francisco, and comprised nine- 
teen missions, an easy day's journey apart from each other. 

The ten new missions were founded in the following order: 
Santa Barbara, December 4, 1786; La Purisima Concepcion, 
December 8, 1787; Santa Cruz, August 28, 1791; Nuestra Sehora 
de la Soledad, October 9, 1791; San Jose, June 11, 1797; San Juan 
Bautista, June 24, 1797; San Miguel, July 25, 1797; San Fer- 
nando Rey, September 8, 1797; San Luis Rey de Francia, June 
13, 1798; and Santa Ines, September 17, 1804. Beginnings had 
also been made on a second line, to be from thirty to fifty miles 
back from the sea, and this inland chain of settlements and de- 
velopment promised to be in no way inferior to the first. 

The wealth of the mission establishments had grown to an 
almost incredible degree. After the cares incident to pro^■iding 
for the ph}-sical needs of their con\erts had been allayed, the 
thoughts of the Padres turned toward the erection of finer places 
of worship. Naturally, they remembered the beautiful churches 
of their native land, and now, furnished with an abundance of 
laborers, with skilled mechanics sent from Mexico, and with 
materials that readily lent themselves to their purpose, they 
proceeded to erect those magnificent structures, which even in 
their ruins, are still looked upon with wonder and admiration. 

In several localities stone churches had been built, of an archi- 
tecture at once so simple and harmonious, that even in ruins 
they are today the grandest in America. .And so it will remain 
as long as arch, pillar, or dome of it shall stand, a noble and 
touching monument of the patient Indian workers who built, 
and of the devoted friars who designed its majestic and graceful 
proportions. 

As a matter of fact, only two of the mission churches now known 
to us were completed before the beginning of the nineteenth 



FR. JUXIPERO SERRA 19 

century: the Mission San Francisco de Asis, probably dedicated 
before July 13, 1785, when Lieutenant Jose Aloraga, who had 
been present at the laying of its cornerstone, was buried, and San 
Carlos, dedicated in 1797. The rest were dedicated at different 
times, from 1806, when San Juan Capistrano was dedicated, to 
that of Santa Barbara in 1820. In the nineteen missions were 
gathered over twenty thousand Indians, leading regular and 
industrious lives, and conforming to the rules of the church. 

Graphic representations of the missions during their early 
history, and at the period of their greatest magnificence, are, un- 
happily, of the greatest scarcity. Hence it was that the mission 
system of California grew to its highest prosperity almost un- 
knowTi to the outside world. 

To prevent confusion and misapprehension regarding the build- 
ing of the mission churches, it should be borne in mind that of the 
fifty or more churches erected between the years 1769 and 1S27, 
less than a dozen remain in any semblance approaching their 
original condition. Many are now entirely extinct, many in 
ruins, and still others repaired beyond recognition. 

The Mission San Rafael Arcangel was founded December 
14, 181 7, in the beautiful spot where the city of San Rafael now 
stands, but not a trace remains save one or two old pear trees 
planted by the Padres. 

The twenty-first and last of the great chain of California mis- 
sions was that of San Francisco de Solano, founded on July 4, 
1823. Its beautiful gardens are obliterated, and its great bells 
gone. These last two missions were founded too late to attain 
any great success or importance. 

The mission affairs, literally, were administered with admi- 
rable simplicity and system. The soul of the plan was "the 
minimum of functionaries with the maximum of responsibilities." 
With the increase of wealth, power and success of the missions. 



20 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

came troubles with the military settlements. The soldiers were 
sent avowedly to protect the friars, but by 1800 it had become 
the duty of the missions to support the presidios, the military 
governors being authorized to draw upon the friars not only for 
supplies, but for contributions of money, and levies of laborers. 
In the years between 1801 and 1810 the missions furnished the 
presidios about eighteen thousand dollars worth of supplies. 
In the year 1820 the outstanding drafts on the government in 
favor of the missions amounted to four hundred thousand 
dollars. 

In the beginning there were no grants of land; everything was 
done by Royal Degree. By this time the Spanish government was 
impatient to see carried out, and reap the benefit of, the pueblo 
feature of its colonization plan. This meant the forming of the 
Indian communities of the missions into pueblos, or towns, the 
churches to be secularized, that is, turned into curacies, the 
pueblo being the parish. This was no doubt the wise and proper 
ultimate scheme, but it came prematurely. It was set forth in 
sounding phrase as purely for the Indians benefit, that they 
might become citizens of towns; but it was much more for the 
benefit of Spain, since by its provisions one-half of the mission 
lands were to be sold for the payment of Spain's national debt. 

i\ffairs grew more and more unsettled. Spanish viceroys and 
Mexican insurgents took turns at ruhng in Mexico, and the repre- 
sentatives of each took turns at ruling in California. During 
three years the secularization project was continually agitated. 

The year 1834 marked the highest point of prosperity of the 
missions, and in this year the final blow fell. The governor of 
California, on instructions from Mexico, issued an authoritative 
edict for their secularization. The friars were ordered to hand 
over all records and inventories, lands, movable property, and 
property of all classes to stewards or administrators appointed. 



FR. JUXTPERO SERRA 21 

Dwinelle goes on to say: "The laws were executed in such a 
manner that the so-called secularization of the missions resulted 
in their plunder and complete ruin, and in the demoralization 
and dispersion of the christianized Indians." 

In 1834 there were, at the lowest estimates, 20,000 Indians 
in the missions. De Mofra's statistics give the number at 30,620; 
in 1840 there were left, all told, 6,000. In comparison for these 
same six years, the number of cattle, horses, sheep and mules 
feU from 808,000 to 6,320. 

Under the new regime the friars suffered hardh' less than the 
Indians. Some fled the country, unable to bear, with all their 
staunchness of heart, the humiliation and hardships of their 
positions under the major-domos. Father Azagomas of San 
Luis Obispo, Father Gutierrez of San Antonio, and Father Sarria, 
of Soledad Mission, were soldiers of the Cross who remained with 
their Indian charges until death freed them from their sufferings. 

For ten years after the Secularization Act affairs went steadily 
from bad to worse. In March, 1846, Governor Pico was author- 
ized by the President of Mexico, to sell the missions to raise 
money to defend the country against the United States. This 
he did at illegal sales, and for insignificant sums. On the 7th 
of July, 1846, the American flag was raised at Monterey, and 
formal possession of California was taken by the United States. 

Then, after being held in abeyance for years, the churches, 
mission buildings, and small parcels of land, were returned into 
the unalienable possession of the Catholic Church. The mission 
property, the large tracts of land cultivated for the community's 
purpose, it was decided, must be considered as government 
property. 



SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA. 




SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA 
"The present site was chosen, six miles up the valley.' 



SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA. 

THE WOODEN CROSS IN THE WEEDS* 

(San Diego) 
By JijHN Vaxce Chen'ey 

He that fell here wore the one crown 
The humble sovereign can lay down, 

And so be kinglier than he was before. 
Time writes against this martyr's name: 
"A better world because he came, 

Good Padre Jaume, to this western shore." 

God's house — there, one day, should it build. 
So Jaume dreamed; so Heaven willed. 

Since fit the place — Nature could do no more — ■ 
And fitter none than he to sit, 
Meek master of himself and it, 

Light of the souls having no light before. 

The savage, with his ax and brand. 
Could not Heaven's warrior understand. 

"Seek Him, love Him, my children!" so he cried 
On the raw ranks of nativ^e men. 
Who only struck, and struck again. 

And left him with the arrows in his side. 

The father loved, when waned the day. 
To wander up the valley way; 

Free, for an hour, from the resisting wills, 
The wrestling with unready mind. 
To bare his forehead to the wind. 

Still blowing, blowing on the blessed hills. 

Reprinted by permission of publishers. Frederick A. Stokes Company. 



26 



THE MISSIONS OF C A LI FORM A 



Around this little leaning cross 
Bend, yellow grasses, wave and toss; 

Gleam, gray ancestral olives; blow, winds, blow 
Back sweeter, sunny hour to hour. 
Love's perfume — breath of the one flower 

In all God's keep that comes, and cannot go! 




E HxWE already heard considerable of the trials 
and achievements which accompanied the founding 
of the first Mission of California. It marked the 
beginning of the realization of the fondest dreams 
of Fr. Serra and his loyal followers. The Mission 
was first established at a place named Cosoy, a short distance 
from the shore, at what is now called Old Town or Old San 
Diego, where the two old palms still remain, with the ruins of 
the Presidio on the hill behind. 

The region of San Diego was well peopled. At the time of the 
founding there were eleven rancherias within a radius of ten 
leagues. But they differed from most of the Indians of the 
Coast, being very insolent, arrogant and thievish. They lived 
on birds, fish, rabbits and grass seeds. The first missionaries 
left in charge were Fr. Fernando Parron and Fr. Francisco Gomez. 
Ill health overtook both Fathers however, and Parron retired to 
Lower California, and Gomez to Mexico, Fr. Luis Jaime and Fr. 
Francisco Dumetz taking their places. 

Trouble with the Indians delayed conversions, and not one 
neophyte gladdened the Padre's heart for more than a year. 
A marked ill-will was manifest by the Indians, and if they ap- 
proached at all, it was to receive the gifts which the Fathers dis- 
tributed in order to attract them. Beyond this they would steal 
whatever came within their reach. Very fortunately they would 
not touch the foodstuff's of the Spaniards. 



SAX DIEGO DE ALCALA 27 

In 1774 it became necessary to separate the Mission from the 
Presidio to avoid the evil influences of the soldiers. The present 
site was chosen, six miles up the valley, and so well did every one 
labor, that the end of the year saw a dwelling, a storehouse, a 
smithy built of adobes, and a wooden church, eighteen by fifty- 
seven feet, completed and roofed with tiles. By this time seventy- 
six neophytes gladdened the Fathers' hearts, and the herds and 
flocks had increased to over two hundred animals. The early 
experiments in grain raising were not successful, the first year's 
crop being destroyed by the rising river, the second, by drought. 
In the fall of 1775 everything seemed bright with hope. New 
buildings had been erected, a well dug, and more land made ready 
for sowing. 

Then the first conflict occurred, revealing to the Padres what 
might at any time occur in their future efforts to christianize 
the Indians. On the night of November 4, 1775, nearly eight 
hundred naked savages stealthily surrounded the Mission. The 
church was broken into and all the vestments and sacred vessels 
stolen. The dwellings of the christianized Indians were invaded, 
and they were threatened with instant death if they gave the 
alarm. Then the buildings were fired, and not until then did the 
inmates know of their danger. Brave Fr. Jaime strode fearlessly 
toward the howling mob, lifting his hands in blessing and crying 
"Lo\e God, my children!" The wild band fell upon him, tearing 
olY his habit, and dragging his body along until life was extinct. 
Then the mutilated corpse was filled with arrows. 

In 1 783 Fr. Lasuen made an interesting report on the condition 
of San Diego. At the Mission there was a church, granary, 
storehouse, hospital, men's house, shed for wood and oven, two 
houses for the Padres, larder, guest-room and kitchen. These, 
with the 740 neophytes under the missionaries' care constituted 
the Mission. In 1800 San Diego was the most populous Mission 



28 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

in California, numbering 1,523 neophytes. In 1824 it registered 
its largest population of 1,829. 

A second church of adobe had been built in 1780, and the 
earthquake of 1803 damaged this. The third place of worship 
was begun, and finished and dedicated on Novermber 12, 18 13. 
Nothing but the fachada of this church remains today, and brick 
foundations have been placed under some of the columns and 
walls or they, too, would have fallen. About $500 has been ex- 
pended in this way, and in cement cappings on ruined walls. 
Ruins mark the adobe wall around the garden. By the side of 
the old church a newer and modern brick building now stands, 
erected for the training of the Indian children of the region. It 
destroys the romantic look of the old place, but is a splendid 
work. Father Ubach, the parish priest of San Diego, has much 
of the spirit of the old friars, and has taught the children the old 
history of the missions, and the chorals their ancestors sang in 
the early days. 



San Diego de Alcala (Saint James) was an Andalusian Fran- 
ciscan (1400-1463) canonized in 1588 by Pope Sixtus V., for his 
saintly and herioc life. The surname, Alcala, was seldom at- 
tached to the name of his Mission in popular usage. His day is 
November 13th. 



SAN CARLOS BORROMEO. 




SAN CARLOS BORROMEO. 

T WAS on March 24, 1770, that the "San Antonio" 
arrived in the harbor of San Diego, with abund- 
ant supplies for the sick and starving missionaries, 
and in a few weeks the second expedition was 
jSJ ready to start for the hidden ^Monterey. With re- 
newed hope and energy Portola set out again, this time in com- 
pany with both Fr. Serra and Fr. Crespi. The latter led the land 
party and arrived at the Point of Pines seven days before the 
ships arrived, with Fr. Junipero, still enfeebled from illness 
on board. 

The next day the parties met amid great rejoicing, and on, 
Pentecost Sunday, June 3, 1770, a shelter of branches was erected 
on the beach, a cross made ready near an old oak, the bells were 
hung and blessed, and possession was taken in the name of the 
Church and the King, the cross and the royal standard being 
planted side by side in the sand, on the same spot where Viz- 
caino and the Carmelite friars had landed one hundred and sixty- 
seven years before. Thus was founded the Mission of San Carlos 
de Borromeo. The customary ceremonies of the uprooting of 
herbs, the throwing of stones, sprinkling of holy water and the 
drawing up of a record of all that transpired then followed. 
The discovery of the harbor and the founding of the Mission 
occasioned great joy in both Mexico and Spain. In the City of 
Mexico bells were rung, a solemn mass of thanksgiving was held, 
and a feast day declared. The result of this news was that 
all were enthused for further extension of the missions. 



32 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

Temporary buildings for the Presidio were now built, and a 
structure of palisades was hastily raised and blessed in order to 
serve as a church. As there was not in the vicinity of the Presidio 
of Monterey sufficient land for cultivation, nor water in abundance 
for irrigation, Fr. Serra scoured the country roundabout in order 
to find a more suitable locality for the proposed Mission. He had 
asked and received permission to establish the Mission wherever 
he thought most proper. 

Viceroy De Croix received Fr. Serra's appeal for a chain of 
missions along the coast, and resolved to found ten new mis- 
sions, beside San Buenaventura and those already established; 
five in Lower California, and five between San Diego and the Port 
of San Francisco. Ten new religions were assigned for these 
new missions. De Croix directed that from the revenues of the 
Pious Fund $10,000, $1,000 for each mission, should be paid to 
the College sindico, to secure whatever was needed and desired 
by the friars. Each friar was also allowed $400 for traveling 
expenses. 

About the gth of June Fr. Serra set out for the valley of the 
Rio Carmelo, for the purpose of making preparations to remove 
the Mission of San Carlos from the vicinity of the Presidio. This 
indicated very plainly that besides the insufficiency of good soil 
and water for irrigation, the influence of the soldiery was a reason 
for removal. The history of the missions in Lower California 
and other countries had proven that the neighborhood of the 
military was one of the worst afflictions of the missionaries and 
their convert Indians. 

A suitable spot was found on the banks of the Rio Carmelo, 
and four or five men were put to work cutting timber for the 
proposed buildings, under the supervision and protection of five 
soldiers, who also helped^occasionally. 

On June 14th the first celebration of the feast of Corpus 



SAX CARLOS BORROMEO 33 

Christi took place. This sacred function was a source of great 
rejoicing and extraordinary delight. Thus far no Indians had 
allowed themselves to be seen, probably from fear of the roaring 
of the ships' cannons. Gradually dread gave way to curiosity, 
and thereafter they frequentl}- visited the Mission. 

In August the restless Fr. Presidente went over to Carmelo 
to hasten the work of construction, which was proceeding very 
slowly. Not until December, 1771, were the wooden chapel, 
dwelling, storehouse, soldiers' quarters and corral completed 
and surrounded by palisades. Fr. Serra and Fr. Crespi, with 
the five soldiers, then took up their quarters at Carmelo and began 
missionary work in earnest. The new Mission was often there- 
after called "Mission Carmelo" because of its location on that 
little stream, but in official reports it was always designated as 
San Carlos de Borromeo or San Carlos de Monterey. The chapel 
and buildings reserved for the soldiers and their families at 
Monterey were called the Presidio de Monterey, or simply 
Monterey, though the chapel likewise stood under the patronage 
of San Carlos. 

At the end of the year 1773 Fr. Serra reported more converts 
than any other mission. Several soldiers had married native 
women. A little later, as the mud roofs failed to keep out the 
winter rains, a new church was built, partl\- of rough and partly 
of worked lumber, and roofed with tules. The lumber used was 
the pine and cypress of that region. 

Agriculture progressed very slowly, but the stock increased 
rapidly. The San Carlos Mission was Fr. Junipero's own charge. 
There he spent all his time when not called away by his duties 
as President of the Missions. Fr. Crespi had aided Fr. Serra in 
founding San Carlos, and for thirteen years had labored by his 
side. In 1781 the two had journeyed together to visit San Fran- 
cisco and Santa Clara, and it was on their return that Fr. Crespi 



34 THE MISSIOXS OF CALIFORXIA 

was taken with his fatal illness. Serra administered the last 
rites to his friend, who died January i, 1783. He was buried in 
the church at San Carlos, on the gospel side of the sanctuary. 

In 1784 Fr. Serra was called to rest from earthly labors, and to 
enter into his heavenly reward. Almost with his dying breath 
he had promised to use "all his influence" with God in behalf 
of the missions. He died on August 28, 1784, aged seventy years, 
nine months and four days, at Mission San Carlos, and was 
buried, as was his expressed wish, by the side of Crespi in the 
sanctuary, Fr. Paloii performing the last rites. In the next four 
months there were so many converts that the belief became 
common that his soul had passed directly into heaven, and that 
the great wave of conversions was the result of his prayers. 

In 1793 the English navigator, Vancouver, paid a second visit 
to San Carlos, and was warmh' received by Fr. Lasuen, who was 
elected to succeed Fr. Serra. On leaving, the British captain 
gave to Fr. Lasuen a handsome barrel-organ as a gift for San 
Carlos. In a collection of relics at San Juan Bautista is an old 
barrel-organ, believed to be this same gift. Vancouver also speaks 
of the new church (the third) then being built. It was of a soft 
straw-colored stone, which was said to harden on exposure to 
the air. The lime used was made from sea-shells. This church, 
which is the wonderful ruin of today, was completed and dedi- 
cated in September, 1797. 

In 1845, when Pico issued his decrees, San Carlos was regarded 
as an abandoned mission, Padre Real living at Monterey, and 
very seldom coming out to the Mission. For many years no one 
cared for the building, and it was left to the mercy of the vandal 
and the relic hunter. In 1852 the tiled roof fell in, and nearly 
all the tiles were either broken or afterwards stolen. The storms 
and winds brought a covering of sand and soon grass was growing 
over the dust of California's great hero and apostle. 



SAN CARLOS BORROMEO 35 

In 1868, Rev. Angelo Cassanova became the pastor of the 
parish church of Monterey, and although Fr. Serra's home 
Mission was a complete ruin, he determined upon its preservation 
from further demolition. The debris was cleared away, and the 
graves of the missionaries were located. The discovery of the 
bodies of S^ra, Crespi, Lopez and Lasuen at once aroused great 
interest in Father Cassanova's work, and sufficient aid came to 
enable him to restore and roof the building, although only with 
shingles where tiles should have been used. The church is 
nearly 150 by 30 feet, and the old pulpit still remains. It is 
reached by steps from the sacristy, through a doorway in the side 
wall. A double lavatory of sandstone, of good and artistic work- 
manship, is also found in the sacristy. There is quite a commu- 
nity living within the vicinity of the Mission today, and services 
are held in the church monthl}'. It is hoped to establish a parish 
there soon, with a resident priest, so services can once more be 
held regularly in the old Mission. 

Several years ago Mrs. Leland Stanford erected on the beach 
at Monterey a marble statue of Fr. Serra standing in a boat 
about to land. A tablet recounts his heroic deeds. 



The saint, San Carlos, was the son of Gilbert Borromeo, Count 
of Arona; he was a famous preacher and a zealous Franciscan. 
His day is November 4th. 



SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA. 




SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA 
"It is still beautiful standing out in the fields, deserted and alone.' 




SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA. 

jFTER ¥r. Serra had set the men to feUing timber 
for the new Mission of San Carlos de Monterey, 
he set out with Fr. Miguel Pieras and Fr. Buena- 
ventura Sitjar, three sailors and a few neophytes, 
to found Mission San Antonio de Padua. A mule 
train with the mission goods and supplies followed under escort 
of a corporal and six soldiers who were to form the mission guard. 
After proceeding southerly about seventy-five miles the company 
reached an oak-studded valley, near a fair-sized stream, in the 
midst of the Santa Lucia Mountains, which they called Los 
Robles (the oaks.) 

Here they pitched their tents near the stream which Fr. Serra 
christened Rio San Antonio. The bells were hung from a stout 
oak, and in a transport of joy Fr. Serra rang them exclaiming 
"Come, come to the holy church! come to receive the faith of 
Jesus Christ!" Fr. Pieras reminded the Father that not an 
Indian was within sight or hearing, but he was mistaken, as one 
native was attracted by the ringing of the bell. 

On July 14, 1 77 1, the large cross was at last raised, blessed and 
venerated as usual, and under a brushwood shelter Fr. Serra 
celebrated the first holy Mass in honor of San Antonio, the 
patron of the new Mission. As was his wont he also preached to 
his little following after the first gospel. A lone Indian was 
again attracted, and after the services Fr. Serra hastened over to 
him and caressed him, and gave him some little presents, hoping 
that he would induce his people to visit the Mission. The prayer 



40 THE MISSIONS OF C ALIFORM A 

was answered, as many Indians immediately visited the kind 
strangers, bringing pine nuts, acorns and wdld fruit to the Fathers, 
and receiving in return beads and trinkets from a people whose 
language they could not understand, but whose kindness had 
touched their hearts. The Indians became very tractable and 
willing to help, and a rude chapel, dwelling and barracks were 
soon built and surrounded by palisades. After fifteen joyful days 
of instruction and the arrangement of temporal affairs, Fr. Serra 
returned to Monterey. 

He now desired to found Mission San Luis Obispo, but had to 
desist owing to lack of guards. Before the end of 1773 the church 
(the second) and dwellings were built of adobe, and three soldiers 
who had married native women were living in separate houses. 
In 1793 a large adobe block was constructed for friars' houses, 
church and storerooms, and four years later this church (third) 
was covered with tiles. This is our ruin of today. 

In 1805 Mission San Antonio gained its highest population, 
having 1,296 Indians under its control. In the days of its glory 
it was in many ways the most famous of all the missions. It 
registered the greatest number of Indian neophytes, and for 
many years bred those wonderful horses which made California 
famous dowTi to this day. The lands of the Mission were found 
to be barren, necessitating frequent changes in cultivated fields 
and stock ranges. 

In 1808 the venerable Buenaventura Sitjar, one of the found- 
ers of the Mission, who had served continuously for over thirty- 
seven years, was called to his reward, and was buried in sight of 
the hills and valley he had so long loved. In 1848 Padre Doroteo 
Ambris was in charge as curate. He remained for thirty years, 
or until his death, when he was buried in the Mission he had 
loved and served so well. He was the last Father in charge of the 
Mission. 



SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA 41 

In the artistic arrangement of its buildings this Mission is 
acknowledged to be one of the most beautiful. The fachada, 
built of brick, is both graceful and elaborate. The remainder of 
the building is of adobe. This Mission makes a pathetic appeal 
to the observer, as it is still so beautiful standing out in the fields, 
deserted and alone. It is off the beaten road of travel and almost 
forgotten. Yet every arch was perfect, — every detail in perfect 
harmony, and its location and surroundings quite ideal. Today 
one can see the ruins of a stonewalled ditch, through which water 
was brought for many miles, and driven against a large wheel 
through a funnel-shaped flume. This furnished the power in a 
curious flour mill that made Mission San Antonio famous as 
furnishing the finest flour in the new country. It was entirely 
the work of an Indian named Nolberto. 

In 1904 the California Historic Landmark League undertook 
the preservation of San Antonio. The big barn-like structure 
of the church has been roughly roofed, but it was too late to save 
any interior decorations or furnishings. A few of the more im- 
portant articles were saved from the general pillage by one 
Mr. Button of Jolon, who still holds them. 
* * * 

San .\ntonio de Padua was born in Lisbon in 1195 and died in 
Padua in 1 23 1. He was canonized in 1232. A famous preacher. 
He is always represented with the Infant Jesus in his arms. His 
day is June 13th. 



SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL. 




SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL 
church is constructed of stones an 




SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL. 

SERRA and Commandante Fages had agreed to 
locate Mission San Gabriel on the Rio del Nombre 
de Jesus de los Temblores (river of the Name of Jesus 
of the Earthquakes), and to place San Buenaventura 
at the first Indian town on the Santa Barbara channel. So 
Fathers Somera and Cambon proceeded northward from San 
Diego about forty-five leagues, to the valley the first explorers 
had named San Miguel. Here, half a league from the stream 
and near its source, they determined to erect the mission 
buildings. Cottonwood, willow and other trees lined the arroyo, 
while blackberries and grape-vines abounded, and at a distance of 
only a league was an oak forest. The usual ceremonies of raising 
a cross, and blessing the immediate surroundings took place on 
September 8, 1771. The first holy Mass was celebrated in a 
brushwood hut, and the fourth Mission, that of San Gabriel 
Arcangel, was founded. All now went to work constructing the 
temporal chapel and other necessary buildings. These were en- 
closed in a stockade for better securit}' against the savages. 

In the first report to Mexico Fr. Serra tells of the populous 
condition of the vicinity around San Gabriel. There were many 
different tribes, however, and unfortunately much warfare be- 
tween them. The tribes nearest the sea would not permit others 
to fish, and these latter were often in great need of food. 
Fr. Serra was very enthusiastic in reference to agriculture, as the 



46 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

plain was fertile and well watered. The Indians had so willingly 
helped in the first work that the missionaries anticipated no 
opposition in their efforts at conversion. Unfortunately the bad 
conduct of one soldier, even at this early date, destroyed the good 
impression made by the fathers, delayed the acceptance of the 
Gospel, and created lasting hatred for the military. 

On October loth, only a month after the founding of the Mis- 
sion, a large number of armed savages fell upon two soldiers who 
were guarding the horses at some distance from the barracks. 
One of the two soldiers was especially attacked, and as a result 
the aggressor was killed. A corporal and his men hastened to the 
rescue, but found only the dead body of the Indian. On hearing 
what had occurred, he ordered the head cut off and placed upon 
a pole to strike terror into the pagans. Later it was discovered 
that the soldier had outraged the wife of the Indian chief; the 
exasperated savage had attempted to avenge the wrong, and had 
lost his life in the attempt. This was only the beginning of a 
long line of wrongs committed against the natives by the uni- 
formed adventurers, whom the missionaries were compelled to 
tolerate among their wards. The prudence and kindness of the 
religious gradually regained the confidence of the natives, so that 
very soon a few children were presented for baptism. 

The Indians in the near vicinity of the Mission seem to have 
been of a superior race. They spoke a soft, musical language, and 
had many usages of politeness, such as "a child bringing water 
to an elder, must not touch it," and that "to pass between two 
persons who were speaking was an offense." They also played 
games in which they decked themselves with flowers, and had 
song contests which often lasted many days. In 1779 Indians 
were chosen as alcaldes and regidores to aid in the administration 
of discipline. The same year there were abundant crops, the 
Mission reporting 2,000 bushels of surplus maize. 



SAX GABRIEL ARCAXGEL 47 

San Gabriel was the natural meeting place for overland parties 
coming from the peninsula northwards, and from Sonora west 
and north, and was made the rendezvous of all the colon- 
ization expeditions. In 1784 the venerable Fr. Serra, in a 
tour to all the Missions, stopped at San Gabriel and became so 
ill his end was daily expected. But he rallied and proceeded 
north. 

On January 14, 181 1, Fr. Francisco Dumetz, one of Serra's 
original compadres, died at San Gabriel. Since 1806 Fr. Jose 
Maria Zalvidea was in charge of Mission San Gabriel. Being 
himself a very strict and diligent Padre, he compelled the Indians 
to work in like manner. He brought the Mission to its highest 
state of efficiency. During his rule the whole precinct rang with 
the busy hammer and movement of many active workers. At 
this period was begun the erection of the stone church which now 
remains. 

z\n interesting adjunct of San (labriel was "El Molino Viejo" — 
the old mill. It was built in Fr. Zalvidea's time about 181 2, and 
the ruins still remain. It was about two miles from the Mis- 
sion, but was later abandoned on account of faulty location. 
After the use of the water in this mill it flowed into the dam below, 
where it was used again to operate a saw-mill, also built by the 
indefatigable Zalvidea. The mills were originalh' roofed with 
red tiles, made by the Indians at the Mission. 

In 1847 Fr. Bias de Ordaz, the last Franciscan father, was 
appointed. He died in 1850, and since that time the church has 
been a regular parish church, under the direction of the bishop 
of the diocese. 

There is a very small portion of the old cactus hedge still re- 
maining, planted by Fr. Zalvidea. Hundreds of acres of vine- 
yard and garden were thus protected from Indians and roaming 
sbands of horses and cattle. The fruit of the prickly pear wa 



48 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

much prized by the Indians, so the hedge served a double pur- 
pose — food and protection. 

The mission church is constructed of stones and cement, and 
in the upper portions of brick. It is 140 feet long by 26 feet wide, 
and 30 feet high. The walls are live feet thick. On the altar are 
several of the old statues, and some quaint old pictures adorn the 
walls. In the baptistry can be seen an old font of hammered 
copper, probably made at San Gabriel or San Fernando. In the 
year 1886 needed repairs were made and the Mission is now one 
of the best preserved. 

In the little town of San Gabriel a building was erected a few 
years ago for the presentation of "The Mission Play," written by 
John Stevens McGroarty. This play ran there for two years, 
depicting the first tragic days of San Diego with their sublime 
faith, the glory of the Mission at Carmel in its prime, and the 
pathetic ending of their glory at Mission San Juan Capistrano. 
This play is very beautiful and also very educational. 



San Gabriel was the angel announcing to Mar\' the mystery 
of the incarnation. 



SAN LUIS OBISPO. 




SAN LUIS OBISPO 
The first roof-tiles were made at this Mission. 



SAN LUIS OBISPO. 

On March 20, 1772, Fr. Crespi and Lieut. Fages, with twelve 
soldiers, a muleteer, and a Lower California Indian, set out from 
the Presidio of San Carlos de Monterey, determined to survey 
the port of San Francisco, for the purpose of finding a site for the 
Mission which was to be erected there. At the close of the first 
day they came to and forded, with some difficulty, what is now 
the Salinas River. The second evening found them camped on 
the river San Benito. Then for ten or twelve days they journeyed 
on to and around the Bay of San Francisco, and finally returned 
to Monterey. 

Meanwhile the ]\Iissions of San Gabriel and San Diego had 
informed Fr. Serra that they were in distress for want of food, 
incidental to the failure of arrival in the suppl}' ships, and in- 
creasing numbers of converts. Pack mules laden with ilour and 
escorted by soldiers were hastened southward. To further has- 
ten rehef, Fages sent a hunting expedition to the Canada de los 
Osos (Valley of the Bears, now San Luis Obispo), fifty leagues 
south of Monterey. The expedition lasted three months, and the 
soldiers killed so many bears and bartered seeds with the In- 
dians, that twenty-five mules were loaded and sent back. 

The supply ships arrived at San Diego in August 1772, but 
reported that unfavorable winds would prevent their proceeding 
to Monterey. So the supply must come overland, and on hear- 
ing this, Fr. Serra and Commandante Fages decided to visit 



52 THE MISSIONS OF C A LI FORM A 

that port, and found the San Luis Obispo Mission on the way 
down. The company consisted also of a troop of soldiers, and 
muleteers in charge of animals loaded with furniture, church 
goods and farm implements for the new establishment. Passing 
by way of San Antonio Mission, the Father rejoiced to see the 
number of converts already settled about the church. Without 
delay the company proceeded for twenty-five leagues more to 
the Valley of the Bears where a low hill was selected for the site 
of the new Mission. A large cross was erected with the usual 
ceremonies, and on September i, 1772, the Fr. Presidente cele- 
brated mass, and ushered into existence the fifth Mission under 
the patronage of San Luis Obispo. 

The previous hunt of the bears by Fages had made the natives 
well disposed toward the priests in charge of the new Mission, 
and they helped to erect buildings, offered their children for bap- 
tism, and brought of their supply of food to the priests, whose 
supply was by no means plentiful. 

Fr. Cavalier was left in charge, with four soldiers and two 
neophytes, and a small amount of supplies consisting of flour and 
brown sugar. The Indians frequently brought them seeds and 
venison. Fr. Cavalier built a chapel and apartments of logs and 
roofed them with tules. The soldiers built their own shelter. 
Four years later hostile Indians discharged burning arrows upon 
the tule roof and everything, except the church and granary, was 
destroyed. Two of the ringleaders were caught and punished, 
but the possibility of fire had been witnessed, and several times 
afterward the Mission was set on fire. These calamities led one 
of the Padres to attempt the making of roof tiles, which proved 
very successful. Soon all the mission buildings wrre so roofed. 

Frs. Lasuen and Tapis both served here as missionaries, and 
in 1798 Fr.Luis Antonio Martinez began his long term of service 
at San Luis. In 1794 the Mission reached its highest population 



SAN LUIS OBISPO 53 

of nearly one thousand souls. Agriculture prospered greatly, 
and in 1794 the King sent a miller, a smith, and a carpenter of 
the artisan instructors. A year or so later a fine water-power 
mill was built and set in motion. 

To the early travelers and traders, few figures were more fav- 
orably known or liked than jovial Fr. Martinez. At one time, for 
the entertainment of guests, he caused a novel pageant to take 
place. All the poultry of the Mission was driven past the corri- 
dors for their inspection. First came the turkeys, then the roos- 
ters, then the white hens, the black and the yellow; next the 
ducks and lastly the geese, some half-flying and all hissing at the 
unwonted coercion. It was an hour in passing. It is safe to 
declare this the drollest sight ever seen on the Pacific Coast, and 
con\ailsed the privileged guests with laughter. 

In 1830 the mission buildings were falling into decay; five years 
later the order of secularization went into effect, and the neo- 
phytes wandered away, and the stock mysteriously vanished. 
Some small distribution of lands and property occurred, and in 
1843 San Luis was converted into a pueblo, the neophytes freed, 
the church turned into a parsonage and other buildings dedicated 
to public uses. The Mission is now an attractive parish church, 
standing on a busy city street, and is restored, unfortunately, 
without much reference to its old traditions, almost entirely 
losing its mission atmosphere. 

An odd characteristic of San Luis Obispo was the construction 
of its corridor. The omnipresent arches were entirely absent. 
Plain round columns, with a square base and topped with a plain 
scjuare moulding, gave support to the roof beams on which 
rested the red tiles. The fachada of the church retreats nearly 
twenty feet from the front line of the corridors. The columns 
and roof of this corridor have now been removed, to permit of the 
sunshine entering the monastery windows. The "restoration" 



54 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

of the Mission has destroyed all resemblance to its honest origi- 
nal self. The adobe walls are covered with painted wood, and 
the tiles have given place to shingles. The beautiful garden, 
although much neglected, still remains. 



Saint Luis, Bishop of Toulouse, was son of Charles II., King 
of Naples and Sicily, and was canonized in 13 17. 
His day is August 19th. 



SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS. 




SAN FRANCIS DE ASIS 
I church, or ruins thereof, no: 




SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS. 

|B0UT June 3, 1776, the good ship "San Carlos" in 
command of Captain Fernando Quiros, and well 
loaded with church goods, house furniture, farm 
implements and propert)' of soldiers and colonists 
for the new Presidio and Mission of San Francisco, 
moved out of Monterey. The expedition consisted of Lieut. 
Jose Joaquin Moraga, Sergt. Pablo Grijalva, two corporals, 
sixteen soldiers and seven colonists. In addition there were 
five Indians in charge of the pack-mules and two hundred head 
of cattle. Those who went as founders of the church were 
Frs. Francisco Palou and Pedro Benito Cambon, two Indian 
servants, two Indian neophytes, and a neophyte from San Carlos. 
The latter was taken to see if he could act as interpreter with the 
bay Indians. A number of pack-mules and eighty-six head of 
cattle were in charge of these Indians. 

They took the same route traveled by Rivera and Fr. Palou 
in 1774, but on account of the women and children, the march 
was slow and with frequent stops. 

The savages were friendly and manifested much surprise to 
see such a multitude of both sexes and all ages. The sight of the 
cattle created amazement as the Indians had never seen animals 
like these before. They often visited the camp of the white 
people, bringing shell-fish and seeds which they exchanged for 
beads and eatables. A welcome change from the ordinary rations 



S8 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

was afforded on the fourth day's journey, when the soldiers en- 
countered a herd of elk and killed three, .\ntelope and deer 
were also seen in great numbers. 

On June 27, the expedition arrived and pitched their tents on 
the lagoon which Don Anza, that very spring, had named "La- 
guna de Nuestra Senora de los Dolores," (Lagoon of Our Lady of 
Sorrow.) The next day an enramada was constructed, and 
Fr. Paloii, on June 28, offered up the first holy sacrifice of 
the Mass. 

After waiting in vain for a month for dispatches from 
Capt. Rivera, Moraga commenced the erection of the fort on the 
spot near the inlet to the bay, which Don Anza had designated. 
The estabhshment of the Presidio had been originally left in the 
hands of Juan de Anza, the famous captain of Tubac, who had 
then successfully completed his march from Sonora, ^Mexico, 
overland to Monterey. He was the first man to blaze the inland 
trail. Anza selected the site for the new Presidio where it now 
stands. Then came the first sailor who steered his ship through 
the Golden Gate. This was Juan de Ayala, Lieutenant of the Royal 
Na^y of Spain, and his ship the "San Carlos" — of California's 
earliest histor}-. Moraga also allowed the Fathers to put up some 
permanent buildings on the Dolores, and left with them six of 
his soldiers, two colonists, and all the mission cattle. This, 
practically, was the beginning of Mission San Francisco de Asis. 
Although the formal opening was postponed until the feast of 
St. Francis, Oct. 4, 1776, when in the presence of the people of 
the Presidio, the Mission camp, and soldiers from the ship "San 
Carlos," Fr. Francisco Paloii finally blessed and raised the great 
cross. He sang the solemn High Mass, assisted by Fr. Benito 
Cambon, Fr. Jose Nocedal and Fr. Tomas de la Pena, who had 
come up from Monterey to select a site for Mission Santa Clara. 

Thereupon formal possession was taken in the name of the King 



SAX FRAXCISCO DE AS IS 59 

of Spain. Te Deum Laudamus was sung, while the bells 
announced the joyful news, the soldiers fired their muskets, 
cannons boomed and the day was devoted to feasting and 
amusements. 

Fr. Junipero Serra was not enabled to attend the founding of 
Mission San Francisco, as he had gone to San Diego to console 
the missionaries there, following a revolt of the Indians, and help 
them to rebuild their Mission. Captain Rivera, for reasons of 
his o\\Ti, and despite the oft repeated desire of the Viceroy, had 
directed that the founding of the Mission should be postponed 
until further notice. So although preparations continued for the 
solemn ceremony, the dedication of the new mission church 
awaited his word. As has been said, October 4, the feast day of 
the patron saint, was set for the formal opening, but the absence 
of Lieut. Moraga delayed the ceremonies. Hoping that he would 
appear in time, Fr. Palou, on the eve of the feast of St. Francis, 
Thursday, October 3, solemnly blessed the nicely decorated 
church building. When on the morrow Moraga had not arrived, 
only a High Mass was celebrated by Fr. Paloii. 

Lieut. Moraga finally arrived on the seventh, and observing 
that everything was ready, and that no word had come from Cap- 
tain Rivera, he allowed the solemn ceremonies and the formal 
opening of the Mission to proceed on the ninth of October, 
1776. 

Thus the Mission of San Francisco de Asis was at last founded 
in accordance with the will of Viceroy BucareU, although in op- 
position to the orders of Captain Rivera. There was much 
trouble with the Indians in the early days of the Mission, and also 
much sickness. The small lake of Dolores, from which the Mis- 
sion gained its popular name, was very near the first temporary 
building erected by Palou for a church, but was later drained, 
filled up and built over. 



6o THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

The earthquake of 1906 caused a great sinkage of ground over 
the lake's former site. 

On May 12, 1777, the frigate "Santiago" arrived in San Fran- 
cisco from San Bias, and was the first ship to sail direct from 
Mexico to the inner harbor of San Francisco. 

In 1782, on April 22, the cornerstone of a new church was laid. 
Three Padres were present, the mission guard, and man}- troops 
from the Presidio. In the cornerstone were enclosed an image of 
St. Francis and many medals and reHcs, also some coins. This 
is our Mission of today. In 1790 the Mission register showed a 
neophyte population of 450, baptisms 551, and deaths of 200. 
Three years later the English navigator, Vancouver, visited San 
Francisco Bay, and mentions scA-eral interesting facts. He said 
"the apartments of the Mission were larger, better constructed 
and cleaner than at the Presidio." At this time all the roofs of 
the mission buildings were of thatch, and the dwellings of the 
Indians were huts of willow poles, with interwoven twigs, and a 
thatch of tules and grass. These huts were round and about ten 
feet high. 

One large room at the Mission was occupied by Indians work- 
ing at looms weaving blankets from the native wool. They also 
wove coarse cloth for the use of the converted Indians. A pot- 
tery was established in 1796. 

Tiles were made and put on the church roofs in 1795, and more 
houses were built for the neophytes, and all similarly roofed. 
Half a league of ditch was dug around the potrero (pasture land.) 

In 1806 the Russian chamberlain, Rezanof, visited San Fran- 
cisco and commended the zeal and self-sacrifice of the Padres. 
He also spoke highly of the ingenuity shown by the women in 
making baskets. In a statement of 1830, the Mission reported 
a decrease in neophyte population from 1,252 to 220, although 
many Indians were sent to the two northernmost missions. 



SAX FRAXCISCO DE ASIS 6i 

The old Mission now faces a palm-grown plaza, but is crowded 
on either side by modern buildings. It is in a good state of preser- 
vation, and has shown a sharj) contrast in durability of construc- 
tion and material to the newer large brick church which was 
totally destroyed in the earthquake of 1906. Its grounds are 
narrowed down by the modern world to the small cemetery on 
the south side, which is a very interesting old place. Just at the 
side entrance of the church is a monument to the first Governor 
of California, Senor Luis Antonio Argiiello. 

A new church is now building, but annuall}-, in Lent, two serv- 
ices are held in the old mission church. The simple, massive 
details of the fachada are distinctly impressive. There are four 
heav}- columns supporting the upper portion, wherein are the 
niches for the bells, and the wide overhanging roof. The old 
ceiling in the church is of rough-hewn timber, painted in a dia- 
mond pattern of red, yellow, blue and white. The floor is still 
parth- co\-ered with old red tiles. The rafters are still fastened, 
like the bells, with buckskin thongs. 



St. Francis founded the order which bears his name. Many 
miracles are recorded as having been worked by and through 
him. His festival is celebrated October 4. The i6th of April is 
the day of the profession of St. Francis, so on that day all members 
of the order renew their vows. 



SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO. 




SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO 
The American Alhambra. 



SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO. 

Behold this craftsmanship of days long dead, 
This mighty ruined temple where Romance 
Has left naught but the glimmer of a glance, 
The echo of a voice, alas far fled; 

Night winds with sob and dewy-sandaled tread 

Sigh through the weed-grown, heaven-roofed expanse 
A requiem of pomp and circumstance, 

A death-song never misinterpreted! 

Here where the Present and the Future ceased 

Long, long ago, the Past seems ne'er to tire 

Of making this, in spite of Time's rude scars, 

A hallowed haunt where Silence is the priest, 

The incense Memory, the Winds the choir. 

The altar lights the immemorial Stars. 

By Clarence Uriiy 

THE MISSION GRAIL 

Four crumbling walls of rose-stained gray, 
The ancient chapel stands today. 
Roofed by the Autumn sky o'erhead. 
Through which the ardent sunlight shines 
On silent transept, empty shrines. 
Where only little wild things praise; 
And at the banished altar's base 
A yellow flower, springing up 
Lifted a gold Communion Cup. 

Bv Agnes K. Gr.\y 



66 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 



ROUBLE had long existed between Fr. Serra and 
Governor Fages, and at last Serra wrote to Mexico 
* protesting against the treatment received from the 
official. Fages was ultimately removed, and Rivera 
appointed in his place. More missionaries, money, 
and suppHes were provided for Fr. Serra, and he was author- 
ized to proceed with the establishment of the additional 
missions planned. In August, 1775, Fr. Fermin Francisco de 
Lasuen and Gregorio Amiirrio, with several soldiers, were sent to 
begin work on Mission San Juan Capistrano. In October work 
was begun, and just when everything was progressing nicely 
news of the terrible conflict at San Diego arrived. The news 
caused serious alarm. Work ceased, the bells were buried and 
the priests returned. 

In October of the following year Fr. Serra, with Fr. Pablo 
Mugartegui, Fr. Amiirrio, and eleven soldiers, again proceeded 
toward the founding of the Mission. The cross erected by 
Fr. Lasuen was still standing, and the bells were soon disintered. 
A hut of boughs was constructed, and Fr. Serra celebrated the 
first holy Mass on the feast-day of All Saints, November i, 1776, 
and thus formally established the Mission. 

Supplies and cattle were secured from Mission San Gabriel, 
and a number of neophytes to help in erecting the buildings. 
The task of finishing these structures was left in the hands of the 
two friars, and Fr. Serra prepared for his return to his beloved 
San Carlos. Once on the way back he was walking ahead with 
only one soldier and one convert Indian. Suddenly they were 
surrounded by armed and painted savages, who yelled and 
threatened to kill them. The neophyte repHed in their language, 
telling them to "beware! as many soldiers followed, who would 




The corridors — cool and rose perfumed. 



SAX JUAN CAPISTRAXO 69 

kill them." The artifice succeeded, and the Indians dropped 
their weapons. The good Father now approached them, and 
making the sign of the cross upon their foreheads, as was his 
custom, distributed glass beads, and dismissed them as friends. 

In 1787 the Mission was in a very prosperous condition. The 
natives had proven tractable and well disposed, the Fathers 
zealous and painstaking, and the land very fertile. In 1800 there 
were over a thousand neophytes, 8,500 horses and cattle and 
17,000 sheep. In February, 1797, work was begun on the church, 
the remains of which are seen today. It is ninety feet wide, and 
one hundred and eighty feet long, and is the work of Fr. Gorgonio. 
It was built of quarried stone, with an arched roof and 
a lofty tower forming its fachada. Its stone facings are more 
elaborate than at any other mission. The master mason who 
did all this work was brought directly from Culiacan, and he 
labored steadily for nine years. The consecration of this beau- 
tiful new church took place on September 7, 1806. Presidente 
Tapis was assisted by many friars, and the scene was one of great 
brilliancy. Governor Arrillaga and his staff, many soldiers from 
both San Diego and Santa Barbara, and numerous neophytes 
from many missions, witnessed the rites. It was one of the most 
pretentious events of early California history. The following 
da}^ Mass was said, and the bones of Fr. Vincente Fuster were 
transferred to their final resting place within the altar zone of the 
new church. 

The church originally had seven domes, three only remaining. 
It is generally considered to have been the most harmonious and 
picturesque of all the missions, and well merits its designation 
of "the American .Alhambra." It was greatly damaged by the 
earthquake of 181 2, which occurred while a number of neophytes 
were at morning Mass. A great tower crashed do\\'n on one of the 
domes, and it, falling, completely buried the worshipers. Over 



70 THE MISSIONS OF C A LI FORM A 

forty were buried in tlie next few days. The priest miraculously 
escaped. Fortunately it was constructed of more durable ma- 
terial than many other missions. The beauty of its ruined domes 
and beautiful arches compares most favorably with the archi- 
tectural ruins of Europe. Natural causes of ruin have been 
greatly accelerated by vandahsm. The large rectangle of the 
Mission was originally surrounded by corridors of many arches, 
only thirty-eight now remaining on three sides. None remain 
on the western side. 

There still remain many interesting relics such as Indian-made 
musical instruments, and images. The campanile is a wall 
joining two buildings and pierced with four apertures for bells. 

The Landmarks Club of Southern CaHfornia has replaced 
the sycamore poles of the old church with Oregon pine and the 
original tiles. Asphaltum has also sealed the roof of the four 
hundred feet of cloister, so the Mission is now reasonably well 
preserved against the ravages of the elements. 



San Juan Capistrano was born in the town of the same name, 
in 1385. He was a lawyer, judge, and finally entered the Fran- 
ciscan order. Became noted for his austerity and zeal. His day 
is October 23. 



SANTA CLARA DE ASIS. 




SANTA CLARA DE ASIS 
"Crops of both grain and fruits were exceedingly fine.' 




SANTA CLARA DE ASIS. 

^^|^\\-^0R reasons of his own, Captain Rivera had long delayed 
the founding of Missions San Francisco and Santa 
Clara. In the fall of 1776 he received a letter from 
Viceroy Bucareli which caused him to hasten north- 
ward. He was much relieved on reaching San Luis Obispo to 
hear that, contrary to his orders, Mission San Francisco had 
been formally dedicated. He visited the new Mission and ex- 
pressed himself as well pleased. With Lieutenant Moraga he 
started out on a survey, and proceeded as far as the San 
Joaquin River, when a messenger came summoning Rivera to 
San Luis Obispo to quell an Indian uprising. Moraga was di- 
rected to proceed with the founding of Mission Santa Clara. 
On January 5, 1777, Moraga, with nine soldiers, one colonist 
and their families, left the Presidio of San Francisco and passed 
the night at Mission San Francisco. 

On the morrow the little troop marched down the bay, and 
on the seventh arrived at the Rio Guadalupe. They camped on 
its banks and selected a location for the Mission about three 
leagues up the river from the bay shore. Here was a creek with 
plenty of water for irrigation, and they were still near enough to 
the bay to enjoy the good fishing. Near this arroyo they raised 
the standard of the cross. They quickly constructed a tem- 
porary chapel, and Fr. Tomas de la Pena, from San Francisco, 
celebrated the first holy Mass on January 12, 1777. A plot of 



74 THE MISSIONS OF C ALIFORM A 

land nearly two hundred feet square was then cleared for the 
mission buildings. 

Moraga then sent a party of soldiers to Monterey to bring up 
Fr. Jose Murguia, with the mission goods, implements and cattle. 
The Father arrived on January 21st. Thus far, Fr. Junipero 
Serra had not seen the two new missions in the north, so he 
agreeably surprised the friars at Santa Clara on September 28, 
and the next day, the feast of Saint Michael, sang the High Mass 
and preached. On October i, he started out verj' early in the 
morning, and late in the evening, very much fatigued, he was 
joyfully welcomed at Mission San Francisco. On the feast of 
St. Francis, October 4, he gratified the mission people, as well as 
the soldiers and colonists, who had come over from the Presidio, 
by singing the High Mass, and preaching with his usual fervor. 

He next visited the fort and was shown the harbor. He gazed 
at the vast expanse of water to the west, the channel before him, 
and the great bay to the right, and exclaimed: "Thanks be to 
God! Our Father St. F'rancis, with the cross of the mission pro- 
cession, has reached the end of the California continent, for to 
pass on he must have boats." In 1779 the waters rose and washed 
out the Mission twice. The Fathers then selected a site further 
back from the arroyo. Here they remained until the earthquakes 
of 1812 and 1818 so damaged the buildings that the Fathers were 
compelled to move to the present site. 

The second church was dedicated May 15, 1784, by Fr. Serra, 
assisted by Fr. Palou and Fr. Pena, and in the presence of Fages 
and Moraga. Withal, the occasion was a sad one, as Fr. Mur- 
guia had been laid to rest within its walls just four days previ- 
ously. He had been its architect and builder. It was the most 
beautiful church erected in Cahfornia up to that date. 

Crops of both grain and fruit were exceedingly fine at Santa 
Clara, causing the Mission to rank next to San Gabriel. In 1777 



5.4 .V 7.4 CLARA DE ASIS 75 

Governor Xe\'e decided to establish a colony of Spanish settlers, 
who should devote themselves to agriculture and stock-raising. 
The surplus was to be sold to the soldiers, thus providing the 
necessities of life in case the transport ships should fail to appear. 

Nine soldiers and five Sonora immigrant families were selected 
to form the pueblo. Each settler was given a yoke of oxen, two 
cows, a pair of horses, one mule, two lambs, two goats, and all the 
necessary farm implements, with the understanding that they 
should pay for the animals and goods, with the product of their 
fields. The locality chosen by Neve was on the eastern bank of 
the Rio Guadalupe, about a mile from IVIission Santa Clara. 
Each settler was given possession of a lot, on which he was to 
erect his dwelling. These houses were built of upright palisades, 
and plastered with mud. He was next given a piece of land large 
enough to sow a fanega (one hundred pounds) of grain, besides 
a plot that would accommodate an arroba (twenty-five pounds) 
of beans and other vegetables. The land was irrigated by a 
ditch bringing the water from the Rio Guadalupe. 

The settlement was named in honor of the patron saint of the 
whole California enterprise, Pueblo de San Jose de Guadalupe. 
Governor Neve asked the friars of Mission Santa Clara to take 
charge of the spiritual wants of the colonists. Such was the be- 
ginning of the first purely white settlement in Upper California. 
The mission Fathers protested strongly at the time that it was 
too near the Mission, and there was constant trouble owing to the 
encroachment of the white settlers upon the Indians' land. In 
Jul}', 1801, the boundaries were all surveyed, clearly marked, and 
agreed upon. In 1795 the church was enlarged and roofed with 
tiles. At that time the natives were busily engaged in weaving, 
tanning and shoemaking. In 1800 Santa Clara was the banner 
Mission for population, having 1,247 souls. In 1833 Fr. Viader 
closed his missionar\- career of nearlv fortv vears in California 



76 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

by returning to Mexico. Fr. Francisco Diego succeeded him. 
After the secularization the downfall of the Mission was \'ery 
rapid. The Indians were demoralized by the grog-shops of the 
pueblo of San Jose, the flocks and herds were apportioned illegally 
right and left, and the fields and gardens totally abandoned. 

The last Franciscan was Fr. Jose Maria del Real, and after 
his death what remained of the mission buildings and land was 
transferred to the Society of Jesus. In 185 1 a learned and culti- 
vated Jesuit priest succeeded in estabUshing the Santa Clara 
College in the old mission buildings. In 1855 it was chartered 
with all the rights and privileges of a university. 

The old vineyard is now a garden, but some of the old olive 
trees still remain. Two of the three original mission bells are 
still there. The altar rail of the restored church was made from 
the rafters of the old Mission. It is of redwood from the Santa 
Cruz ^Mountains, and of beautiful coloring and texture. In a room 
in the college building is a collection of articles saved from the 
old Mission. There are candlesticks, pictures, chairs, vestments, 
the key to the old Mission, and the best bound book in Cali- 
fornia — an old choral. 

Although most material evidence of the Mission has faded 
away, the memory will be kept bright by the portrayal, every 
second >ear, of "The Mission Play of Santa Clara," written by 
Martin V. Merle and produced by the Senior Dramatic Club of 
the University. 

Santa Clara was a native of the same town as St. Francis, by 
whose example and preaching she was converted. Born in 1193 
of noble parents, she entered the convent of the Portiuncula at 
the age of nineteen years. Founded the second order of 
St. Francis. Her day is the 12th of August. 



SAN BUENAVENTURA. 




SAN BUENAVENTURA 
"The Mission grew rapidly, and its flocks and herds increased.* 




SAN BUENAVENTURA. 

I EN years or more Fr. Serra had been heart-sick over 
the repeated postponements of the founding of 
Mission Buenaventura. Great was his dehght when 
Governor Neve announced his intention of at once 
founding both that and Mission Santa Barbara. 
Although busy training his neophytes at San Carlos, Fr. Serra 
determined to go in person, and wrote Fr. Pedro Benito Cambon, 
a returned invalid missionary- from the Philippine Islands who 
was recuperating at San Diego, to meet him at San Gabriel. 
On the way south Fr. Serra passed through many Indian villages, 
and took great joy in telling the natives of the channel regions 
that he would return soon and build them a mission. 

On March i8 Fr. Serra arrived at Los Angeles, and the next 
evening at San Gabriel. Fr. Cambon had already arrived. 
After a consultation and brief rest, the two Fathers, with Governor 
Neve, the troops and colonists set out upon the march. The 
bounty and privileges promised the colonists and recruits were 
similar to those enjoyed by the settlers of the pueblo San Jose, 
near Santa Clara Mission, and these colonists must include a 
mason, a carpenter and a blacksmith, and all had to bind them- 
selves for a service of ten years. 

Lieutenant Ortega was to command the new Presidio, with one 
ensign, three sergeants, three corporals, seventy soldiers and their 
famihes ; a number of muleteers in charge of the pack-mules and 
the necessary Indian servants completed the caravan. It was a 



8o THE MISSIOXS OF CALIFORNIA 

very imposing procession for those early days, and called forth 
much praise. Governor Neve, with ten soldiers from Monterey, 
their wives and families, also accompanied the procession. 

Messages overtook Governor Neve at the first halting place, 
from De Croix, recalling him to San Gabriel. Before departing 
he ordered the Mission established on the site chosen in advance, 
and his return awaited. 

The expedition reached the channel on March 29, and the next 
day, Easter Sunday, 31st of March, 1782, the cross was raised 
with the usual ceremonies. In an enramada Fr. Serra celebrated 
the first High Mass, and preached a fervent sermon on the Resur- 
rection of Christ. Fr. Cambon represented the choir. The chapel 
and dwellings were then constructed and surrounded with a 
stockade. For the sake of some trifles, the Indians of the place 
gladly helped in the work. Thus Mission San Buenaventura 
came into existence, twelve years after Don Galvez packed the 
goods for it, in Lower California. 

Fr. Cambon was installed as the Father, and fourteen soldiers 
left as guard. The Mission grew rapidly, and its flocks and herds 
increased. Vancouver tells us: "I found the Mission to be very 
superior in style to any of the new establishments yet seen. 
The gardens far exceeding anything I had before met with, both 
in quality, quantity and excellence of variety. Not one specia 
sown or planted that had not flourished." A fire occurred which 
destroyed many buildings. The new church erected was of 
stone, and roofed with tiles. It was duly dedicated by Fr. Senan, 
assisted by five other friars and a priest, on September 9, 1809. 
In 1806, the venerable Vincente de Santa Maria, one of the early 
founders, died, and his remains were now placed near the altar 
of the new church. 

That Buenaventura was prosperous is shown by the fact that 
in June, 1820, the government owed it a total of $35,170, which 



SAN BUENAVENTURA 8i 

Bancroft says: "There was not the sHghtest chance of ever 
receiving." 

On August 24, 1823, the Presidente and Vice-Perfect Senan, 
who had served as Padre at this Mission for twenty-five years, 
died and was buried by the side of Fr. Santa Maria. After his 
death the Mission began rapidly to dechne. In 1843 the tem- 
poraHties of the Mission were restored to the Fathers, and it 
was one of the two missions able to provide a moderate sub- 
sistence after the secularization. 

The Mission is now the parish church of San Buena\'entura, 
and has been renovated out of much of its historic appearance 
and value. All the outbuildings have been destroyed or removed, 
and the fine old pulpit, which was one of its richest treasures, has 
finally disappeared. 



San Buenaventura was originally Giovanni de Fidanza, born 
in 122 1. 

St. Francis de Assisi, meeting him one day, was charmed with 
his attractive power of personality, and forseeing his future great- 
ness, exclaimed: "O buona veiitural", which in Spanish is Buena- 
ventura; in English, "good fortune." The name clung to him 
ever after. 



FR. SERRA AND CURRENT EVENTS. 




SANTA BARBARA 
"The one grey fortress that never surrendered.' 



FR. SERRA AND CURRENT EVENTS. 



^f;^V)OVERNOR Neve now inf 
^l"'/l)-v' would proceed to establ 



iformed Fr. Serra that the}* 
^^'.'/l)^ would proceed to establish the Presidio of Santa 
l-^VfjJ Barbara, and the trustful Father anxiously expected 
to see orders issued for the founding of the Mission. 
Finally Neve told Fr. Serra that the Mission would not be 
commenced until the Presidio was finished. The Father then 
returned to Monterey, giving the Sacrament and Confirmation 
to Missions San Luis Obispo and San Antonio on the way. 

Many controversies now arose between Governor Neve, De 
Croix and Viceroy Mayorga on the one side, and Fr. Guardian 
Pangua, of the College of San Fernando, on the other. The latter 
battled bravely, and with firmness and prudence, for the rights 
of the Indians and the missionaries. 

The established precedent had been that $i,ooo, for the build- 
ing of each mission, was taken from the Pious Funds of Cali- 
fornia, which belonged to the missions, but was administered by 
the government, and $200 for each missionary, yearly. Viceroy 
Mayorga now threatened to withhold the supplies, tools and im- 
plements, so absolutely necessary to the founding of a mission. 
Notwithstanding Neve's and De Croix' antagonistic demeanor, 
nine missions were already built and thriving, and twelve more 
were subsequently built, which became great schools for agri- 
culture, horticulture, mechanical arts and stockraising, as well 
as spiritual centers. 



86 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

At this time seventeen Franciscan friars were laboring in the 
Missions under Yr. Serra's supervision. Some of these friars had 
replaced others who, through illness or discouragement after ten 
years of service, had returned to the mother-house in Mexico. 
No friar who was disabled, or had served ten years, could be 
detained against his will. Two had died at their post, one, a 
martyr. 

The friars came willingly to California as messengers of Christ, 
and were well prepared to impart their message to the savages. 
To do so, however, they must accept many disagreeable tasks, 
such as the conducting of great farms, the raising of live stock, 
and the teaching of nearly all the mechanical arts. Many 
plodded along under burdens so heavy they endured a slow mar- 
tyrdom in order to save souls for Christ. By 1783 nine Missions 
had been established, six thousand Indians had been baptized, 
and live stock, all told, numbered 16,100 head; twenty Franciscan 
friars administered to the temporal and spiritual welfare of the 
neophytes. 

On June 2, 1783, the frigate "La Favorita," arrived in the 
harbor of San Francisco, with Fr. Diego Noboa and Fr. Juan 
Rioboo, the two supernumeraries petitioned for by Fr. Serra, 
of the College of San P'ernando. When these two friars reached 
Fr. Serra at San Carlos he was suffering from grave asthmatic 
trouble, as well as a running sore on his breast of a malady con- 
tracted in Mexico. The venerable Father received the two 
religious with thanks to God, though he had expected more to 
arrive. Fr. Noboa he stationed at San Carlos. 

For the purpose of confirming the neophytes, Fr. Serra was 
continually traveling up and down the length of California. 
These journeys were always on foot, and the bare ground was his 
bed at night. His food was eaten sparingly, and was always of 
the commonest and poorest. Now, greatly relieved from local 



FR. SERRA AND CURRENT EVENTS 87 

duties, Fr. Serra determined to visit once more all the Missions, 
and administer Confirmation in all the churches for the last 
time. 

First he wrote an affectionate letter to Fr. Francisco Palou, 
instructing him with regard to the duties of Presidente, which he 
would, ere long, have to assume. The Fr. Presidente then took 
ship for San Diego, from which he visited each Mission on the 
long trip of one hundred and seventy leagues, north to San Carlos, 
where he arrived in January, 1784, much better in health than 
when he left. Though seventy years of age now, the servant of 
God would allow himself no rest, and set out for the two northern 
establishments on April 30, 1784. 

Fr. Serra hastened through Santa Clara, as he intended to 
dedicate the new (second) church on his way back, and arrived 
at Mission San Francisco on Ma>' 4, where he was warmh' wel- 
comed by Fr. Palou. He administered the Sacrament to all 
whom he had confirmed. 

About the sixth day of May, Fr. Jose Murguia, the principal 
missionary and builder of the new church of Santa Clara, fell 
grievously ill, and Fr. Palou, of San Francisco, hastened to his 
bedside. As we have already learned, Fr. Murguia passed to his 
reward on May 11, 1784, before he could witness the dedication 
of the church he had reared. 

Fr. Serra arrived at Mission Santa Clara on May 15, and in 
the afternoon of the same day he blessed the new church, and on 
the following day he sang the High Mass, and preached to the 
multitude with his customary fervor. 

Fr. Palou was now prevented from returning to his Mission, 
by the feebleness of Fr. Serra, who confessed his strength failing 
him, and wished to make the last retreat at Santa Clara. The 
reverent Father then repeated his confession amid many tears. 
He now returned to San Carlos and devoted himself to his apos- 



88 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

tolic work. To the Fathers in the more distant missions he bade 
farewell, and asked for their prayers. 

He begged Yr. Palou to come and assist him to die, and re- 
ceived the Holy Viaticum and Extreme Unction at his hands. 
Having finished his devotions, he stepped to the door and looked 
lovingly on the sea and sky and verdant fields, as if bidding them 
farewell. He then retired to his cell, and in the afternoon of 
Saturday August 28, 1784, passed to his everlasting reward, 
aged seventy years, nine months and four days. He had adminis- 
tered the Sacrament to 5,800 souls. 

On the next day, Sunday, the remains were deposited in the 
grave prepared for them in the sanctuary, on the Gospel side of 
the altar, close to those of Fr. Juan Crespi. Years later these 
bodies were moved to the present church. 

At the death of Fr. Serra, the office of Presidente of the Mis- 
sions passed to Fr. Paloii, as he had been so designated by the 
College of San Fernando long before. This was but a temporary 
arrangement, however, as Fr. Paloii had permission to retire to 
Mexico, and did so late in 1785. Three years after Fr. Serra's 
death there appeared in Mexico a small cjuarto volume, written 
by Fr. Palou, entitled "Life and Work of Venerable Father 
Junipero Serra," which has become the standard history of 
California, do^^ii to the year 1784. Fr. Zephyrin Engelhardt, of 
the Santa. Barbara Mission states in his "Franciscans in Cali- 
fornia," (1897) page 300, that Palou "completed it in February, 
1785, and carried it to Mexico later in the same year." 

This marks it as the first book ever written in California. 

In September, 1785, Fr. Fermin Lasuen, of San Diego, received 
notification from Fr. Guardian Juan Sancho, dated February 6, 
1785, of his appointment to the presidency of the California 
missions. 

Referring back to P'r. Serra, McGroarty says: "It is, perhaps. 



FR. SERRA AXD CURREXT EVEXTS 



89 



quite safe to say that there is not in all the history of civilization, 
one other single man whose individual labors for God and 
humanity bore such a bountiful harvest. The name of Junipero 
Serra is todaj' the best loved name in California, without dis- 
tinction of class or creed. His memory is revered by all the 
people." 






SANTA BARBARA. 

IN A MISSION GARDEN 

(Santa Barbara.) 

Stand here, and watch the wondrous birth of Dreams 
From out the Gate of Silence. Time and Tide, 
With fingers on their lips, forever bide 
In large-eyed wonderment, where Thoughts and Themes 
Of days long flown pass down the slumbrous streams 
To ports of Poet-land and Song-land. Side 
By side the many-colored Visions glide. 
And leave a wake where Fancy glows and gleams. 

And then the bells! One stands with low-bowed head 
While list'ning to their silver tongues recite 
The sweet tale of the Angelus — there slips 
A white dove low across the tiling red — 

And as we breathe a whispered, fond "Good night," 
A "Pax vobiscum" parts the Padre's lips. 

By Cl.arexce Urmy. 

]X APRIL I, 1786, Fr. Guardian Sancho informed 
Fr. Lasuen that, by order of Viceroy Matias de 
Clalvez, he had sent six rehgious who had volun- 
teered, in order to make possible the founding of 
Mission Santa Barbara. Instructions for $1,000 for 
the erection of the Mission, had been issued, and all the missions 
had been asked to aid by donating live stock and seeds. Fr. 
Lasuen, accompanied by Fr. Oramas and Fr. Paterna of San Luis 




94 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

Obispo, came do\\Ti from San Carlos, and on December 4, 1786, 
the feast of Santa Barbara, Virgin and Martyr, he raised and 
blessed the great cross which marked the site of the future Mis- 
sion. Governor Fages had been invited to attend the ceremon- 
ies, but did not arrive until the fourteenth. 

On December 16, Fr. Presidente Lasuen, in a brushwood hut, 
sang the High Mass and preached in the presence of Don Fages. 
The Mission was thus formally founded, although December 4, 
has always been regarded as the genuine day of founding. 
Fr. .\ntonio, of San Luis Obispo, and Fr. Cristobal Oramas, a 
newcomer, were appointed the first missionaries. 

Early the next year a chapel, a dwelling, a servants' house, a 
granary, a carpenter shop, and a house for girls and unmarried 
women, were constructed. These latter women were placed in 
the care of some elderly Indian woman, to safeguard them from 
immoral influences. The boys and young men used the carjaen- 
ter-shop until a house for them was built. 

All these structures were of adobe, with walls three feet thick. 
The roof was formed by heavy rafters crossed with poles, and tied 
with rawhide strips. Over these was spread a layer of soft cla}-, 
and thatched with straw. 

At the end of 1807 an Indian \'illage had arisen south of the 
Mission, consisting of over two hundred and fifty separate adobe 
dwellings, housing as many Indian families. The first chapel was 
dedicated May 21, 1787. It was enlarged within a year, but by 
1792 had again proved too small. Converts were coming in 
rapidly, so the old structure was taken down and a fine edifice 
took its place in 1793. Its size was twenty-five by one hundred 
and twenty-five feet. The earthquake of 181 2 badly damaged 
this adobe building, and on its site arose the splendid structure, 
with its fine corridor, which we see today and which is the wonder 
and admiration of the traveler. The walls are si.x feet thick and 



SANTA BARBARA 95 

are further strengthened by soHd stone buttresses, nine feet 
square. The towers to a height of thirty feet are a soHd mass of 
stone and cement, twenty feet square. A narrow passage leads 
through one of these to the tower, where the old bells still call the 
faithful to service. 

The Santa Barbara Mission church is the most solid structure 
of its kind in California. It is one hundred and sixty-five feet 
long, forty wide and thirty high, and roofed with tiles made by 
the mission Indians. The Mission reached its highest population, 
of 1,792, in 1803. 

Five of the early missionaries and three of later date are 
buried under the sanctuary in front of the high altar. These 
include Fr. Paterna, Fr. Estevan Tapis, Fr. Duran and Fr. Diego. 
In the stress of turbulent days, this Mission was the one 
grey fortress that never surrendered. Within its quiet walls the 
Franciscans held their ground. At times their number dwindled 
to a mere handful — often no more than two of the brethren were 
left to keep alive the altar lights — but they never wholly departed. 

The influence that preserved Santa Barbara from the neglect 
and decay of the other missions, was the petition presented to 
Rome in 1853, causing it to be erected into a Hospice, as the be- 
ginning of an Apostolic College for the education of Franciscan 
novitiates, which it still maintains. 

The small but beautiful cemetery is walled in and entered 
from the church. Here under the long parallel lines of flagstones 
lie the bodies of four thousand Indians, as well as a number of 
whites. A large vault contains the bodies of the members of the 
Franciscan community. 

The mission buildings surround the beautiful gardens, with 
their variety of tropical plants and palms, and the fountain with 
its myriad of goldfish. This garden is denied to woman, only a 
reigning queen or the wife of a President of the United States is 



96 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

allowed to enter. The Princess Louise was allowed to enter when 
her husband was Governor General of Canada. 

This old Mission, of late years, has been kept up entirely by 
funds given the Franciscan missionaries, who are still its cus- 
todians. The Mission contains an excellent library of very val- 
uable books, gathered from the other missions at the time of 
their secularization. The fountain in front of the church is the 
most beautiful piece of iron work to be found among all the mis- 
sions. Just below the fountain, and now enclosed by a garden 
fence, is a large reservoir with sloping sides nine or ten feet wide, 
where the Indian women of the old mission days did their laun- 
dry, .^t the lower end of this reservoir is another carved figure. 
This cistern is built of solid stone and well cemented. 

At Santa Barbara the bell is tolled at 3:00 p. m. each day, that 
the people may raise their hearts to God for a few minutes. The 
Mission stands three miles from the beach on high ground, back 
of the city and looking to the sea. It is an everlasting benedic- 
tion to the whole vicinity. 



Santa Barbara was a martyr to the christian faith. Tortured 
and beheaded by her father, an idolater, in year 240. Her day 
is December 4. 



LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION. 



;K\iin6 of Mission La. P\iri5ima Conception, California,;] 78 7. 



-■lat^ix'. '■• ^^'-1.^, 




LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION 
' of the valley stretched down to the ( 




LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION. 

)HE third channel Mission, La Purisima Concepcion, 
was founded near the south bank of the Santa 
Ines River, by Fr. Lasuen on December 8, 1787. 
The rainy season prevented the building of any 
structures until the following March, when those 
necessary were constructed, and by the following August there 
were seventy-nine neophytes registered. Fr. Vincente Fuster 
of San Juan Capistrano, and Fr. Jose Arroita, a newcomer, were 
stationed there as the first missionaries. During the first decade 
nearly a thousand baptisms were recorded, and the Mission 
flourished in all departments. 

The first church erected fell rapidly into decay, its usefulness 
lasting only ten years or so. The second was constructed of adobe, 
and roofed with tiles, and although well built and of good ma- 
terial it was completely destroyed by the disastrous earthquake 
of 181 2. All the Indian houses were ruined at this time also. 
Fr. Payeras tells us that "the earth opened in many places emit- 
ting water and black sand." This calamity was cjuickly followed 
by hea\'>- rains, which caused great hardships to the homeless 
natives. Rude huts were erected for immediate use, and a new 
site for a church was selected, across the river and about five 
miles distant. Water for irrigation and domestic purposes was 
brought in cement pipes from Salsperde Creek, three miles away. 
These pipes were made and laid by the Indians under the super- 
vision of the friars. 



loo THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

Poor La Purisima seemed claimed by adversity! It suffered 
badly from a drought in the winter of 1816, and the sheep per- 
ished by hundreds. The next year fire destroyed the Indian 
houses. Fr. Payeras writes that the Indians of this locality were 
both diligent and docile, and in the first years of the Mission 
there were over fifty rancherias in the district. 

With the assistance of interpreters, the Father prepared a 
catechism and manual of confession in the native language, 
which was very useful in imparting religious instruction, and up- 
rooting idoltry. In less than twenty years the entire population 
for many leagues had been baptized. 

Fr. Payeras died in 1823, and the Mission lost its tried and 
truest friend. For twenty years he had guided and controlled 
its interest in peace and in storm. He was wise and earnest, and 
greatly beloved. Had he lived but one more year, the terrible 
Indian revolt of 1824 would undoubtedly have been warded off, 
or, in any event, the difficulties quickly adjusted. This uprising 
proved very disastrous for the Mission, but during all these 
forces of distruction, — earthquake, fire, flood and battle, — the 
results of Indian labor are notable. In 1819 they produced 100,- 
000 pounds of tallow; 8000 bushels of grains were raised in 1821, 
and between 1822-27, the Mission furnished the Presidio of Santa 
Barbara with supplies valued at over $12,900. 

The architecture of La Purisima is different from most of the 
other missions. It was built on a slope, not far from the river. 
The structure was about three hundred feet long, by fifty feet 
wide. The church was at the southwest end, and occupied 
about eighty feet of this building. The corridors were only in 
front of this structure, and about ten feet wide. The windows of 
the church are low and arched. There is nothing left now of the 
wings that used to connect. 

A beautiful view of the valley stretching down to the ocean 



LA PURIMISA COXCEPCION loi 

can be obtained from the end of this broken corridor, or from the 
near-by hills to the rear of the Mission. The sunset glory must 
have been very dear to the Fathers! 

It is now solitary and deserted, rapidly crumbling to pieces, 
and sadly defaced and desecrated, by the heartless and thought- 
less of the human sex. (3nly a few old pear trees remain, stretch- 
ing out gaunt and shriveled boughs bearing a few pinched little 
blossoms. 



One of the Holy Days of the Roman Catholic religion is De- 
cember 8, dedicated to the holy mystery of the Immaculate Con- 
ception, and this Mission bears that name. 



SANTA CRUZ. 




'If I 'll i i j i I ], 1 1 i mtjii mm^MsLm mmmm 





SANTA CRUZ 
"The Mission reached its greatest glory in 1830.' 




SANTA CRUZ. 

)OME five years after the establishment of Mission 
San Carlos Borromeo, near Monterey, Fr. Paloii 
on his way from Mission San Francisco to Mon- 
terey, crossed over the Coast Range and perceived 
the beauty of the present Santa Cruz valley, and 
described it as a splendid place for a town and mission. He noted 
the good land, water, timber, wood and pasture, and the advan- 
tage of the beautiful bay close at hand. Mention was also made 
of the sycamore, cottonwood and willow trees within the near 
vicinity, and closer to the hills many redwood. The good judg- 
ment of Fr. Palou has long since been thoroughly confirmed. 
Twenty-two years after the first visit of the Spaniards to this 
locality the benighted Indians around Aptos and Santa Cruz 
were given a mission. 

On August 2, 1790, the joyful news reached Monterey that 
the ship had arrived with the necessary implements for the 
founding of Mission Santa Cruz, but the church goods were 
missing. The Viceroy was notified, and on January 20, 1791, 
directed Fr. Lasuen not to delay the founding, as these goods 
had been ordered, and, in the meantime, to procure the necessary 
articles from the other missions. Fr. Lasuen directed a circular 
letter to the various missions showing this need, and many 
responded. On x\ugust 28, 1791, the Mission was accordingly 
founded, Fr. Lasuen raising and blessing the cross, and cele- 



io6 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

brating holy Mass on the spot where the church was to be 
erected. On September 25, Fr. Alonzo Salazar, and Fr. Bal- 
domero Lopez arrived and pitched their tent on the hill where 
the Catholic church now stands. They began in a very primi- 
tive way; something to serve for a church was first provided. 
They brought with them contributions from the nearest missions 
to help them start their new housekeeping. Santa Clara gave 
thirty cows, five yoke of oxen, fourteen bulls and nine horses. 
"Two pair of the oxen," the record runs, "were very bad." 
The San Carlos Mission gave scA-en mules. From San Francisco 
came five yoke of oxen, but then it is quaintly stated that, "of 
those five }'oke of oxen, we had to kill a pair, so bad were they; 
and of the seven mules received from Carmel, one was so gentle 
that he died three days after." San Francisco also sent sixty 
sheep, ten rams and two bushels of barley. That fall they ran 
short of provisions, and applying to the soldiers were given 
beans, corn and chocolate to the value of $42.00, "which value," 
the Father observes, "was faithfully returned." 

The Fathers gathered the Indians together and taught them 
the first rude approaches to civilized life: the men, the use of 
tools, and the women, to weave. A year and a half later we find 
them with a great work upon their hands. It was the building 
of the church. From the first the Indians had shown their 
willingness to assist the Fathers, and many had witnessed the 
founding. 

Adobes were made, immense trees were felled and he\\^l, and 
with almost superhuman efi"orts, were dragged to the spot. It 
took a little over a year to build the church, which was one hun- 
dred and twelve feet long, twenty-nine feet wide, and twenty- 
five feet high. 

The dedication took j^lace on March 10, 1794, and was the 
occasion of a great demonstration. Fr. Tomaz Peiia came over 



SANTA CRUZ 107 

from Santa Clara, and Hermenegildo Sal, commanding officer of 
the Presidio of San Francisco, came down, together with four or 
five priests. Other buildings were erected as needed, and in 1796, 
a flour mill was built and running. In 18 10 a large house with 
two wings was built for widows and girls. On October 12, 181 2, 
the neophytes found Fr. Andres Quintana dead in bed. He had 
been in poor health for some time, so it was at first thought he 
had died a natural death. An investigation proved, however, 
that he had been called to attend a dj'ing native, set upon, and 
brutally murdered. The body was mutilated and then returned 
to his bed, and the door locked. The culprits were captured, and 
five out of the nine were sentenced to work in chains for many 
years. Three others died in prison, and but one survived the 
punishment. 

It is interesting to know some of the small details of daily life. 
They rose at sunrise and proceeded to the church for morning 
prayer; breakfast of atole (corn-meal gruel) followed, and then 
the da\''s work began. Toward noon they returned to the Mis- 
sion, and passed the time until two o'clock in the afternoon, at 
dinner of pozole (a gruel with added meat, beans, peas or lentils), 
and repose. After that hour they resumed work until sunset. 
All took themselves to the church for evening devotions and then 
to supper. This meal was usually of some combination of meats 
and vegetables, wheaten cakes, and fruits. After supper came 
amusements of some kind, until the hour for retiring. Every 
good thing came in its own good time, and there was admirable 
system. 

The clothing for males consisted of a linen shirt and trousers, 
and a blanket. The women had each two undergarments a year, 
a gown, and a blanket. 

The agricultural success of the Mission is shown in the follow- 
ing statements. From fort}'-iive bushels of wheat sown, they 



io8 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

reap live hundred bushels. From seven bushels of barley, they 
harvest two hundred bushels, and from six bushels of horse-beans, 
they garner two hundred bushels. 

There were 2,900 head of cattle at New Year's Point in 1814, 
although there was considerable complaint of wild beasts playing 
havoc among the sheep and cattle. 

The Mission reached its greatest glory in 1830. Walter Colton 
says, "In that year the Mission had 42,800 head of cattle, 
3,200 horses and mares, 72,500 sheep, 200 mules and large herds 
of swine." Then, the church was spacious, and was garnished 
with $25,000 worth of silver plate. There were nine bells in the 
church tower, and they cost $3,900. What a clanging they must 
have made on the air when they were all ringing together! 

The Mission sheltered, clothed, fed and taught thousands of 
Indians. It is said to have had many valuable vestments, but 
these like the other treasures are now scattered and lost. Some 
very curious old manuscripts and music scores written in very 
large characters, with the Latin words of the chants divided 
plainly into syllables for use in the music room and for public 
performance, were stiU preserved as late as 1879. Oi^ the easterly 
side of the hill, below the mission site, are still discernible ruins 
of the old wine vaults. In its day of glory fruit trees and grape 
vines clambered over the hills. 

The mission period of Santa Cruz has long since passed away. 
The race for whose benefit it existed has died out. The Mission 
was secularized in 1834, by order of General Figueroa. Not a 
trace now remains of the buildings, and a large Catholic church 
occupies the site. A commemorative arch has been built at the 
entrance, and dedicated to the memory of the Mission. 

There is a very interesting incident connected with the name 
of Santa Cruz that I will mention : 

The ship "San Antonio," Captain Juan Perez, sailing on the 



SANTA CRUZ 109 

first expedition to Upper California, stopped near one of the 
islands in Santa Barbara channel for fresh water. Two friars went 
ashore with the sailors, and were received in most friendly manner 
by the wandering savages. On returning to the ship in the even- 
ing, the Fathers found they had lost a staff surmounted by a 
cross. They grieved, but gave it up for lost. So they were 
exceedingly pleased when it was returned by natives the next 
morning. In memory of the little incident the isle was called 
Santa Cruz. 



The festival days of the Holy Cross are May 3 and September 14. 



LA SOLEDAD. 




LA SOLEDAD 
"Being inland, it was ofttimes named as a place of refuge." 



LA SOLEDAD. 

THE WOOING OF THE ROSE 

The years with their remorseless hands, 

Have ground to dust the white-walled missions. 

And, in the place of fruitful lands. 

Have left us but the drifting sands, 

The broken shrines, the old traditions. 

By Lucius Harwood Footf. 



^ HE Mission Nuestra Seiiora de la Soledad (Our 
Lady of Solitude) was founded by Fr. Lasiien on 
October 9, 1791, at a point midway between Mis- 
sion San Antonio and Mission Santa Clara. The 
name of Soledad was first given to the district years 
before by Fr. Crespi on account of its solitude and quietness. 
To Lasuen the wide vacant fields foretold good pasturage, and 
irrigation possibilities promised fine crops. Lieutenant Arguello 
and the guard, Fr. Lasiien, Fr. Diego Garcia, Fr. Mariano Rubi 
and a few Indians were present at the blessing and raising of the 
cross. 

There were few Indians in the near vicinity but by persistent 
labors the Fathers increased their possessions and neophytes. 
At the close of the ninth year there were over five hundred Indians 
living at the Mission, and they had over a thousand head of cattle 
and a good supply of horses. In 1805 the neophytes had increased 
to over seven hundred. A new church was begun in 1808. 



114 THE MISSIOXS OF CALIFORXIA 

In July, 1814, Governor Arrillaga while on a tour of inspection 
was taken very ill, and was hurried to La Soledad to enjoy the 
care of his good friend Fr. Ibaiiez. He died and was buried 
within the church. He had served for fourteen long years, and 
is the only Spanish governor whose dust lies in California. 

For forty years the Fathers and natives lived a quiet and peace- 
ful life in their inland valley. They were blessed with prosperity. 
In 1821 they had over 16,000 head of stock. An aqueduct for 
many miles brought water for irrigation. Changes in political 
administrations brought changes for the worse to the ^Mission, 
and the Indians rapidly decreased. 

One of the tragedies of the IVIission's decline was the death of 
Fr. Sarria, which took place in 1836. He had occupied many 
positions of trust and was for several years the Presidente, and 
was greatly revered and loved by the natives. 

The last years of his life were spent at La Soledad and when 
devastation came he remained with the few faithful Indians, 
who — poverty stricken — still Hved on at the Mission. One 
Sunday morning while saying Mass the enfeebled and aged father 
fell before the altar and expired. It was known that he had 
lived for a long time a hermit's life and it was commonly believed 
that he had died from lack of proper nourishment. 

Being inland Soledad was named as a place of refuge many 
times in the early days when revolutionists or Indian uprisings 
threatened. In the years of pitiful struggle for its temporalities 
the Mission was allowed to go completely to ruin. These ruins 
are about four miles from the town of the same name on the 
Southern Pacific railroad. 

Named for the Holy Virgin in her solitude. Her day is com- 
memorated in some places on Good Friday and in others on Holy 
Saturdav of the same week. 



SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE. 




SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE 
"From the East it was the first Mission reached by the trapper.' 



SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE. 



THE EAGLE DANCE 

The young braves beat with muffled bone, 

The old squaws drone in monotone, 

The circling dancer giddy swirls. 

Now high, now low, he swings and whirls, 

Then slow his winged arms extend, — 

They dip, with bird-like swoop they bend; 

His body crouches for the flight, 

Head forward thrust, eyes steely bright. 

A naked body, sinewy, brown. 
An eagle's feather tops his crown; 
Upon his lean bare arms are bound 
An eagle's wings. There's not a sound 
Escapes the straight unconquered mouth 
01 this sad Redman of the south. 

The visions of an eagle rise 

And hide the curious white men's eyes. 

Young, bold as in the days of yore 

He sees the might eagle soar. 

With swoop, and dip, new energy 

He dances, dreaming he is free. 

By Lucia Etta Lorinc 



ii8 THE MISSIOXS OF CALIFORXIA 



"^ HE founding of Mission Santa Cruz and Mission 
E3^ Soledad was the first step in a great undertaking 
~£) now planned by Fr. Presidente Lasiien. Up to this 
I^J time each mission had been quite alone in its work 
save when the Governor or Presidente paid an occas- 
ional visit. Now it was decided to have the regions between the 
missions explored for new sites. Governor Borica gave orders 
for this search and it was the intention to fill up these gaps and 
make the distance between more ecjual. 

Money from the Pious Fund and missionaries were furnished, 
and on June 9, 1797, Fr. Lasiien and Sergeant Pedro Amador 
with a party of soldiers started out from Santa Clara for the spot 
then known as San Francisco Solano where Fr. Danti on Novem- 
ber, 1795, had planted a cross. 

Here, on Trinity Sunday, June 11, 1797, Fr. Lasiien raised and 
blessed the cross. In a shelter of boughs he celebrated High Mass 
and thus dedicated the Mission in honor of the foster-father of 
Christ, San Jose. Five days later the guards and laborers were 
sent to begin work. The first missionaries appointed were 
Fr. Isidore Barcenilla and Fr. Augstin Merino. By the end of 
the year there were thirty- three converts and in 1800, over two 
hundred and eighty. A wooden structure with a grass roof was 
the first church. 

The Indians around San Jose were insolent and troublesome, 
and in January, 1805, when Fr. Cueva was called upon to visit 
some sick neophytes, attacked the party killing the guard Higuera, 
wounding one soldier and three neophytes besides killing the 
horses. Fr. Cueva was struck in the face. Though badly demor- 
alized they managed to get back to the Mission. Soldiers from 
San Francisco were sent after the hostiles and succeeded in cap- 
turing thirty, while eleven were killed. 



SAX JOSE DE GUADALUPE 119 

\"on Langsdorff speaks highly of the Mission, its soil, produce, 
situation and vineyards. He says: "This Mission will in a few 
years be the richest and best in New California." 

In 1809 the new church was completed and on April 23, 
Fr. Presidente Tapis came and blessed it. The following day he 
preached and F'r. Arroyo de la Cuesta said Mass before a large 
congregation. In 1820 Mission San Jose reported a population 
of 1,754 souls with 19,718 head of stock. For twenty-seven years 
Padre Duran, who from 1825 to 1827 was also Presidente, served 
Mission San Jose. In 1824 it reached its highest point, having 
1,806 neophytes and being prosperous in ever}- line; it stood 
fourth on the list both as to crops and herds. 

Coming from the East it was the first Mission reached b>' the 
trapper and had an exciting history. Up to the time of the 
secularization it remained a very prosperous Mission, in fact its 
decline did not start until after 1840. 

Many people have mistakenly associated Mission San Jose 
with the pueblo of early days, now the modern city of San Jose. 
But the Mission is a small settlement twenty miles northeast of 
the city of San Jose and located in the foothills overlooking San 
Francisco Bay and in sight of Mission Dolores. 




AN OLD OLIVE PR 



I20 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

The earthquake of 1868 totally destroyed the mission church 
and a modern parish church was built upon the site. Nothing of 
the original buildings now remains but a portion of the monastery. 
The corridors were without arches and quite plain and unpre- 
tentious. Two of the old bells are now hung in the new parish 
church and the old baptismal font is still in use. 

A modern orphanage conducted by the Dominican Sisters is 
established on the old mission site and the garden is kept in as 
excellent a condition by the Sisters as in the old days it was by 
the Fathers. 

The old olive trees still bear plentifully and each February 
there is a rich juicy crop gathered to be pressed for their oil or 
put up for family use. 



SAN JUAN BAUTISTA. 








SAN JUAN BAUTISTA 
"The church and its gardens are well cared for and beautiful.' 



SAN JUAN BAUTISTA. 



"*■ HE second connecting link was to be Mission San 
Juan Bautista. The Franciscan Fathers called the 
^' region San Benito, hence the name of the river 
and later of the county. The great number of 
Indians decided the site, and the location was most 
admirable, giving the Fathers a beautiful view of hills and 
valleys, a watch over their herds and an outlook in case of 
attack. The soil was rich and a clear creek flowed at the foot 
of the mesa. Here, on the day of the patron saint — John the 
Baptist — June 24, 1797, the Mission was dedicated. 

Fr. Lasuen assisted by Fr. Magin Catala and Fr. Jose Manuel 
de Martiarena blessed the water, the surrounding country and 
a large cross, sang the Litanies and concluded with the Te 
Deum. Work upon the church and various buildings was begun 
immediately. The first missionaries were Fr. Pedro Adriano 
Martinez and Fr. Jose Martiarena. In two years there were 
three hundred and thirty-four Indians converted and at the end 
of eight years there were over twelve hundred neophytes. Hostile 
Indians caused much trouble at this Mission, burning buildings 
and seriously threatening the community. Moraga was sent 
against them, capturing many hostile chiefs. 

The earthciuakes of 1798 cracked all the adobe walls of the 
buildings and caused everyone to sleep out of doors for safety. 
In June, 1803, the cornerstone of a new church was laid. Don 



124 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

Jose de la Guerra was the sponsor and Fr. \'ider conducted the 
ceremonies aided by the resident priests. The church and 
adjacent buildings formed three sides of a court two hundred feet 
square which was used as a recreation ground by the Padres and 
also as protection against hostile Indians. The fourth side was 
inclosed by a wall. 

As there was no building stone in the vicinity San Juan Bautista 
was built entirely of adobe (sun-dried brick) and roofed with 
tiles. Walls higher than twenty feet were supported by buttresses 
of brick. The walls were coated with lime mortar and the pres- 
ence of cinnabar in the mortar gives all the missions that peculiar 
yellow tint so noticeable at sunset. It was completed June 25, 
1812. In 1S18 a new altar was completed and decorated. 

In 181 5 Fr. Esteban Tapis was the missionan,- and he after- 
wards became the Presidente. His body now reposes near the 
altar of the church and an inscription briefly records his life and 
work. He died November 3, 1825. 

The church faces south by east and is two hundred feet long 
by seventy feet wide and is forty-iive feet high. The walls are 
supported by four buttresses. The west side has been covered 
with a wall of redwood to prevent its falling out. 

The Mission had originally a chime of nine bells ranging in 
size, but only one now remains. They were cast in Mexico and 
were remarkably rich and mellow in tone. 

Until recent years there were no pews in the church, the wor- 
shipers alternately kneeling or standing as the service required. 
There was a gallery for the choir above the entry. The walls 
are hung wuth many sacred old paintings, several of which were 
brought over from Spain. Fr. Jose Antonio Anzar was the last 
Franciscan Father and he served thirty years. From the main 
entrance one may pass into the garden where stands the mission 
cross erected by Father Rubio. Another very interesting object 



SAX JUAX BAUTISTA 125 

is the ancient sun-dial which is two and one-half feet high, and 
is carved from a single piece of sandstone. 

Fr. Rubio has said this dial was intended for San Felipe and 
therefore its record of time is one second too slow for San Juan 
Bautista. 

A notable plant in the garden is a very old Winchevia which 
is a mass of purple flowers in the early spring. On the northerly 
side of the church lies the old cemetery covering about half an 
acre. The records show the burials to be about 3,920. 

The monastery is of adobe and the corridor floor is brick-tiled. 
The arches are of flat burned brick and stand twelve feet from 
the monastery wall. The Padres were brick-makers in the modern 
sense of the word, for not only did they make adobe or sun-dried 
bricks, but the roof and floor tfles and the bricks used in their 
buildings are all properly burnt. The fachada is simple, plain 
and unpretentious. 

The interior of the church is different from most missions as 
the only windows are four square apertures on each side almost 
at the top of the walls. The modern bell tower is sadly out of 
harmony with the Mission. 

It seems that the Indians of the early days were first won to 
the church by the strains of music. In a collection of curios still 
remains an old barrel-organ made in London. The Father used 
to play this little hand organ and the Indians were first overcome 
with fear which was gradually dispelled and they finally hstened 
with delight. Fr. Tapis composed much music for the Mission. 
There still remain three large volumes done on parchment in 
large characters, the note for the different voices done in different 
colors. 

The church was restored in 1S84, although still further work on 
the buildings is planned. At San Juan there lingers more of the 
atmosphere of the olden time than is to be found at any other 



126 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

spot in California. The church and its gardens are still well 
cared for and beautiful. The roses and vines still nestle under 
the ancient palms. The church fronts on a little green locust- 
walled plaza, the sleepiest, sunniest, dreamiest place in the world. 
In 1825 there were spoken at thisAIission thirteen different Indian 
dialects. 



The Mission is in honor of St. John the Baptist. His day is 
June 24. 



SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL. 




SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL. 

TSSION San Miguel was the third established by Fr. 
Lasiien in the year 1797. It was founded on July 
25, near Los Pozas (water pools) which Fr. Buena- 
ventura Sitjar who led the surveying party deemed 
the best location. The Indians were numerous and 
idiom of San Antonio. They showed pleasure at 
seeing the missionaries. Fifteen children were presented for 
baptism on the day of the founding, and the venerable Father 
deemed it a portent of great good. 

Fr. Antonio de la Concepcion Horra was one of the first mis- 
sionaries and caused Fr. Lasiien much trouble by erroneous 
reports on the missions. He was very shortly deported as insane. 
Fr. Juan Francisco Martin then labored with Fr. Sitjar. 

In 1806 a disastrous fire occurred destroying all the manu- 
facturing part of the Mission as well as a large quantity of hides, 
wool, cloth and six thousand bushels of wheat. The church was 
also badly damaged. 

The Mission registered its largest population in 18 14, having 
1,096 neophytes. Several rancherias and two large vineyards 
then belonged to theMission. In 1818 a new church built directly 
in front of the old one was ready for the tiles. The mission church 
is in an excellent state of preservation today. In 1901 its outer 
walls were given a new coat of plaster and cement. Its tiled 
roof is in good condition and its interior decoration, considered 



I30 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

from the point of age and preservation, is the finest of all the 
missions. Nothing has been done to disturb its quaint beauty 
and it remains in practically the same condition as it was left 
by the Padres themselves. 

These decorations were done by a Spaniard named Murros 
in 1820 and 182 1. He copied the designs out of books and only 
the Indians assisted him although the Fathers were always con- 
sulted. The colors were of vegetable origin mostly, and sized 
with glue manufactured at the Mission from the bones of animals 
killed for food. 

The yellows were extracted from poppies — la copa de oro 
(cup of gold) — , the blues from nightshade and the reds were gained 
from stones found at the beach. The interior view gained from 
the choir loft over the entrance is wonderfully beautiful. 

Over the altar in this church is an immense eye, several feet 
across typifying the "all seeing eye of the Father," in which 
the credulous Indians were said to stand much in awe. The 
steps of the chancel and the rafters were hewn in the Cambrian 
mountains about thirty miles toward the seacoast and have 
gained the hardness almost of iron. The rafters are ten by twelve 
inches in the square and forty feet long and were brought by the 
Indians with oxen to their destination. They protrude about a 
foot through the walls where they are keyed with large wooden 
spikes. 

On the walls hang ten oil paintings brought by the original 
founders. The old marriage register of the Mission is now at 
Mission San Luis Obispo. It has a title page signed by 
Fr. Lasuen. 

The Mission lies a little to the south of the town of San Miguel 
and fairly glistens in the sunlight. There is an atmosphere of 
peace and quiet surrounding it so profound that a visitor ap- 
proaching sadly disturbs the birds and wild rabbits in the tall grass. 



SAN MIGUEL ARC AN GEL 131 

In several of the rooms of the monastery which have not been 
restored can be seen the heavy beams and rafters still securely 
bound together with rawhide thongs of nearly a hundred years. 
Near the front an old bell hangs from a support to announce the 
visitor, but an immense steel tower supporting a bell has been 
erected to summon the worshipers to service. It is entirely out 
of harmony with the beautiful old Mission and Father W. A. 
Nevin assured me it would surely be removed with the building 
of the Camino Real. 

The arches of San Miguel are very irregular, there being twelve 
in all. Nearest the church are two square pillars before the arches 
begin. There was originally a quadrangle of two hundred and 
thirty feet square with a corridor corresponding to the one in 
front. San Miguel has always been noted for its hot springs 
and sulphur mud baths of Paso Robles, the Padres and the 
Indians first knowing of their healthful and curative properties. 

( )n the Gospel side of the altar in the church rest the mortal 
remains of two of the Franciscan missionaries: Fr. Marcelino 
Cipres who ministered at San Antonio and later at San Luis 
Obispo, died January 30, 1810, aged about forty-one years. 
By his side rests the remains of Fr. Juan Francisco Martin, 
who was the Father of the Mission almost from its foundation 
till his death on August 28, 1824. His age was fifty-four years. 
A beautiful and fitting memorial was placed over their bodies 
in 191 2 by Father Nevin and the loyal worshipers. 



The Mission is in honor of the Arcangel Miguel whose day is 
September 29. 



SAN FERNANDO, REY DE ESPAGNA. 






SAN FERNANDO REY 
L was noted for its excellent iron and silver work.' 



SAN FERNANDO, REY DE ESPAGNA. 



"H. H." 

Clear ring the silvery mission bells 
Their calls to Vesper and to Mass; 
O'er vineyard slopes, through fruited dells, 
The long processions pass. 

The pale Franciscan lifts in air 
The Cross above the kneeling throng; 
Their simple world how sweet with prayer, 
With chant and matin-song! 

There with her dimpled, lifted hands, 
Parting the mustard's golden plumes. 
The dusky maid, Ramona, stands 
Amid the sea of blooms. 

And Alessandro, type of all 
His broken tribe, for evermore 
An exile, hears the stranger call 
Within his father's door. 

By Ina Coolbrith 

/,ni(^AURTHER exploration revealed no better location for 
the proposed Mission between Buenaventura and San 




Gabriel than that already selected by Fr. Vincente de 
Santa Maria on Reyes Rancho. Fr. Lasuen therefore 
at the end of August left Santa Barbara with Sergeant Olivera 
and five soldiers to lay the foundation of Mission San P^rnando. 



136 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

The formal ceremonies took place on September 8, 1797, the 
Fr. Presidente assisted by Fr. Francisco Dumetz, the priest 
chosen to have charge, and his assistant Fr. Francisco Uria cele- 
brating the High Mass and raising the cross. On the same after- 
noon Fr. Lasiien baptized five little Indian boys and live little 
girls in the enmarada in which he sang the Mass. On October 4 
Sergeant Olivera reported a warehouse and guard-house finished 
and two more houses begun. Preparations were being made for 
a temporary church. 

An adobe church with a tiled roof was consecrated in December, 
1806. This was badly injured in 181 2 by the earthquake, when 
thirty new beams were needed to repair it. Once again a new 
chapel was built in 1818 which is represented by the ruins of 
today. A monastery was built to the rear of the church and the 
plaza lay between. Fine palms, plants and flowers here flourished. 
This courtyard had a beautiful fountain, the reservoir of which 
was built of brick and covered with cement. A double bowl 
rested on the center standard. 

Although there were nearly a thousand neophytes in 1810 the 
Mission seemed to be cramped for pasture land. This caused 
much trouble over grants and protests. Agriculture prospered, 
however, as in the five years between 1822 and 1827 the Santa 
Barbara Presidio received supplies worth $21,203. 

The Mission was noted for its excellent iron and silver work. 
Connected closely with Mission San Fernando is the first dis- 
covery of California gold. Eight years before the great days of 
'49 Francisco Lopez the mayordomo of the Mission was in the 
canyon of San Feliciano and in digging up some wild onions with 
his sheath knife he discovered a lump of gold in the dirt. The 
news spread and the rush began. The first California gold 
coined at the mint in Philadelphia came from the mines here and 
the first gold "pans" were bateas or bowl-shaped Indian baskets. 



SAX FERNANDO, REV DE ESPAGNA 137 

Within the mission lands lay the Camulos Rancho the home of 
Ramona the heroine of Helen Hunt Jackson's beautiful story. 

Fr. Francisco Dumetz was the last survivor of the immortal 
Franciscans. He came to California with Fr. Junipero Serra. 
Father Orday remained as pastor until May, 1847, a^nd was San 
Fernando's last minister. 

The church of San Fernando was a fine and well-built structure. 
It faced the southwest. The church walls throughout were 
built of adobe and of considerable thickness, thus allowing much 
original style in the treatment of outer and inner arches and 
pillars. It is now a ruin, a shake roof covering it. The corridors 
of the inner court extended to the monastery, a long low building 
which was restored a few years ago by the Landmarks Club. 
The arches were built of large, flat, burnt brick. The 
graveyard is on the northwest side of the church and close 
by is the old olive orchard where a number of trees still grow. 
Two large and very old palms are here also and ofttimes figure 
in the pictures of the Mission. There is a corridor with nineteen 
arches in front of the monastery which has an arch over the 
entrance, shell-like on the inside. 



San Fernando was built in honor of St. P'erdinand, third king 
of Spain of that name. During his reign the crowns of Castile 
and Leon were united. 

His dav is Mav ;o. 



SAN LUIS, REY DE FRANCIA. 




SAN LUIS REY 

'No other Mission had so fine a church." 



SAN LUIS, REY DE FRANCIA. 

THE SPIRIT OF THE DESERT 

An Indian rides across the plain, 
And crushed beneath his pony's tread 
The alkali's white crystals shine. 
Red wheels the sun high overhead. 

Stolid of face and sombre-eyed; 

His mustang's bridle trails aground; 

The sullen lassitude of heat, 

Of smothering light, enfolds them round. 

Hot hazes rise; in shimmering veil, 
The panting breath of parched earth. 
Their silhouette grows dim. A speck 
They fade into the desert-dearth. 

By Amklia Woodward Truesdell 



N OCTOBER, 1797, new explorations were made 
by Fr. Lasuen, accompanied by Fr. Juan de San- 
tiago, Corporal Pedro Lizalde with seven soldiers 
and five Indians. A location was selected but the 
rainy season necessitated the postponement of 
the founding until the ne.xt year. On the following June 13, 
1798, Fr. Lasuen founded the eighteenth Mission and named it 
San Luis Rey as the Viceroy had decreed. Besides the Fr. Presi- 
dente there were present on this memorable occasion, Fr. Nolberto 




142 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

de Santiago, Fr. Antonio Peyri and Captain .\ntonio Grajera 
with a number of guards from San Diego and a great multitude 
of Indians. Twenty-five Indian boys and twenty-nine girls 
were baptized on the same day, which delighted the venerable 
Father. Seven male and twelve female Indians sought baptism 
but were told to wait for instruction in the Christian doctrine. 

Fr. Antonio Peyri was appointed the first missionary and a 
month later received an assistant. Fr. Lasuen had established 
five new missions within twelve months over six hundred miles 
of territory and he now took a well deserved and much needed 
rest. 

Much of the cheerful energy of Fr. Lasuen was traceable to 
the cordial feeling and friendly interest existing between himself 
and Governor Borica. The latter was very unlike Governor Neve, 
who delighted in humiliating the Padres merely because they 
were priests, or the fault-finding Governor Fages. 

An unwonted feeling of religious liberty possessed and cheered 
the friars during the rule of Governor Borica and his three 
successors. That the missions made wonderful strides in both 
material and spiritual progress is proven by the records. 

No other missionary has left a more splendid record than 
P"r. Peyri. He was earnest, energetic and sensible and had a 
great gift of directing others. The Indians w'orked willingly 
and faithfully for him and soon six thousand adobe were made 
for the church. It was completed in 1S02 and Fr. Peyri was 
still unsatisfied. Buildings of all kinds were soon constructed 
and in 1810 the population was 1,519 with the smallest death- 
rate of any mission. 

In 181 1 Fr. Peyri petitioned the Governor for permission to 
build a new and better church of adobes and brick, but consent 
was withheld, so Fr. Peyri in 1816 went out to Pala, twenty 
miles east of San Luis Rey, and built a branch establishment — 



SAi\ LUIS, KEY DE FRANC I A 



143 



ofttimes termed the Pala Mission — with a campanile now known 
all over the world as the "Bells of Pala." Soon there were a 
thousand converts tilling the soil and attending services in the 
church. 

In 1826 San Luis Re}^ reached its maximum in population, 
having 2,870 worshipers and controlled two hundred thousand 
acres of land, kn average crop consisted of over twelve thousand 
bushels of grain. 

No other mission had so line a church. It was one hundred 
and sixty feet long, fifty feet wide and sixty feet high with walls 
four feet thick. The tower had a belfry for eight bells and the 
corridor had two hundred and fifty-six beautiful arches. The 
building formed a square of five hundred feet, the court being 
leveled and neat and the long cloister connecting with all the 
dependencies of the Mission. In this patio Fr. Peyri planted in 
the loving soil with his own gentle hands the original California 
pepper-tree which was given him by a sea captain from Central 
and South America. 

Fr. Peyri labored here for over thirty years and finally seeing 
that the republic was ine\'itable he became its enthusiastic 




mf-\^ 




m"k * «i ^ ^ ^ * " * #f ** 




144 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

friend. A law expelling all Spaniards was passed in 1829 and he 
then was unsuccessful in obtaining his passport. 

When Governor Victoria was exiled he went from San Gabriel 
to San Luis Rey to rest and recuperate and Fr. Peyri decided to 
leave with him for Europe, taking four neophyte boys with him. 
Fr. Peyri was heartbroken at having to leave his Mission and 
his Indian children and he blessed them amid tears and with 
outstretched hands from the deck of the vessel. 

The Indians when they missed him had ridden post haste to 
San Diego and some even tried to swim out to the ship. For a 
long time they placed flowers in front of his picture at the Mission 
and prayed for his return to them. 

In 1843 Micheltorena's decree restored San Luis Rey to 
priestly control, but by this time much was in ruins. Fr. Zalvidea 
had reached old age and the four hundred Indians had very little 
left to them. All the ranchos passed into private ownership. 

In 1892 Fr. J. J. O'Keefe was sent from Santa Barbara to 
San Luis Rey to repair the church and make it suitable for a 
missionary college of the Franciscan order. On May 12, 1893, 
the rededication of the restored building took place, the bishop 
of the diocese, the vicar-general of the Franciscan order and 
other dignitaries being present. Three old Indian women were 
there who had heard the Mass at the original dedication of the 
church in 1802. Since that time Fr. O'Keefe has raised and 
spent thousands of dollars in repairing, keeping alway in mind 
the original plans. 

San Luis Rey is now a college for the training of missionaries 
for the field and Fr. O'Keefe is working as rapidly as possible to 
reconstruct more of the buildings that they may be used for the 
purposes of the college. The quadrangle will be restored on 
smaller lines, not disturbing however, any standing arch. 

Very little of the original decorations now remain, and this 



SAX LUIS, REV DE FRANCIA 145 

is a rude imitation of marble in black and red, with bluish-green 
lines. In the choir gallery over the main entrance can still be 
seen a great revolving music stand and several large illuminated 
manuscript singing books of the early Franciscan period. The 
old pulpit still occupies its original position and is entered by a 
doorway piercing the wall. Red burnt brick steps lead up to 
it from the side altar. Upon entering the church there is a door- 
way to the right — now bricked up — which lead into the mortuary 
chapel. This room is very beautiful even now in its pathetic 
ruins. It is said to be the finest piece of work in all the missions. 

San Luis Rey was the last Mission founded by Fr. Lasiien, 
the worthy Father passing away at San Carlos on Sunday, June 26, 
1803. As Presidente he guided the missions with a master hand 
since 1785, the year following Fr. Serra's death. Details of his 
illness and death are sadly lacking. His body reposes near 
Fr. Serra's on the Gospel side of the altar at San Carlos. 
Fr. Estevan Tapiz was chosen his successor as Presidente. 

The Landmarks Club has rendered Fr. O'Keefe some aid. 
It is estimated by the United States Government that $2,000,000 
would be required to repair and restore the Mission to its former 
condition. 

At Pala the chapel, sacristy and priest's room have been 
reroofed and tiled. The interior of the chapel was rehabilitated, 
great care being taken of the old Indian frescos. An alien and 
unsympathetic priest later wiped them out of existence. 



The Mission is in honor of King Louis IX. of France. 
His day is August 25. 



SANTA INES. 




■^piJDI 






SANTA INES 
"The old and beautiful Mission is still i 




SANTA INKS. 

|HE first ten years of the nineteenth century has been 
called the "Golden Age of the California Missions." 
Governor Arrillaga proved himself thoroughh' in 
sympathy with the friars in their efforts to teach 
and enlighten the Indians and to spread Christ- 
ianity. Fr. Estevan Tapis followed closely in the footsteps 
of his predecessor and as Presidente of the missions ruled 
with wisdom and earnestness. In the latter part of 1798 the 
Fr. Presidente Lasuen had sent Fr. Tapis with an escort to survey 
the country east of the Sierra. Plans were devised for more 
missions as the prospect of numerous converts was most promis- 
ing. On the strength of Fr. Tapis' report statements were sent 
to Governor Arrillaga and by him to Viceroy Iturrigaray. Active 
preparation now began for the founding of the Mission. 

The natives of the locality chosen were of a most turbulent 
character and a larger guard than usual was declared necessary. 
They were however alert and intelligent. 

Fr. Tapis accompanied by Fr. Marcelino Cipres, Fr. Antonio 
Calzada and Fr. Romualdo Gutierrez, Commandant Carrillo 
and the soldiers and numerous neophytes from Santa Barbara, 
slowly marched the thirty-five miles from Santa Barbara over the 
mountainous road to the wooded home of the future Mission. 
Here, on September 17, 1804 the ceremony of foundation took 
place. Fr. Tapis, assisted by the other priests, raised and blessed 
the cross under the patronage of Santa Ines, Virgin and Martyr. 



ISO THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

Fr. Calzada and Fr. Gutierrez remained as the missionaries in 
charge. 

The first event following the founding was the baptism of 
twenty-seven children, but this auspicious opening did not por- 
tend uninterrupted prosperity. 

The largest number of neophytes was in 1816, numbering 
about seven hundred and sixty, many coming from other missions. 
They raised large crops of wheat, com, barley and beans and 
accumulated stores of hides, soap, tallow and wool. 

In the five years between 1822 and 1827 they furnished supplies 
to the Presidio of Santa Barbara valued at $10,600, receiving 
in return "drafts" on the CaHfornia treasury never honored. 

The first church erected was not elaborate, but was roofed 
with tiles. It was badly damaged in the earthcjuake of 1812' 
One corner of the church fell, ruining the roof, the walls were 
badly cracked and many smaller buildings were demolished. 
The true mission spirit prevailed and the Fathers immediately 
began the rebuilding, in the meantime holding services in a ware- 
house. In 181 7 the new church was completed of brick and 
adobe and still remains. 

The church and monastery greatly resemble San Miguel, and 
with the beautiful campanile (bell tower) immediately adjoining 
the church, form the fachada. There are five bells at Santa Ines, 
two bearing inscriptions of Mission Purisima and one of San Juan 
Bautista and believed to be gifts to the later built Mission. 
Only ten arches remain of the long corridor which once adorned 
this Mission. On one side of the church were the gardens while 
the Indian abodes were on the other. The church floor is of red 
tiles and the original decorations of the altar zone still remain. 
Most pretentious and elaborate are the marbleized panels and 
conventional figures in diamonds of different sizes. 

Santa Ines contains also very striking and pleasing mural 



SAXTA IX ES 151 

decoration. In the sacristy is a design done in blues, reds and 
yellows, of a flower and leaf below the Greek key and a con- 
ventional flower and leaf above. It is considered the most artistic 
design now to be found in any Mission. 

At this Mission were to be found the most expert workers in 
leather and silver. Their reputations spread in the early days, 
for truly artistic were many saddles carved and inlaid with silver. 
Near the church was a large reservoir built of brick, twenty-one 
feet long and eight feet wide. It was at the bottom of a sunken 
enclosure about sixty feet long by twenty wide with a sloping 
entrance and walls built of burnt brick. Connected by a cement 
pipe laid underground over six hundred feet long is a second 
reservoir somewhat larger which supplied the Indian village with 
water. The upper reservoir was for the Padres' use. The water 
supply came from the mountains several miles distant, flumed 
when necessary and carried through cement pipes constructed 
and laid by the Indians under the Father's direction. 

About 1835 the Mission was ordered secularized. At that 
time everything was prosperous but very shortly the decline 
set in. In 1844 Fr. Duran reported over two hundred neophytes, 
with sufficient resources for their support. In the previous 
year the Mission had been restored to the friars and an ecclesi- 
astical college was opened but it enjoyed but a brief existence 
of five or six years. 

The old and beautiful Mission is still in use but shows plainly 
the effect of its long and laborious life. Fr. Arroyo resided at 
this Mission for several years and was a most remarkable man 
He was noted far and wide as a scholar. He prepared a working 
grammar in the Indian language. 

The Mission is in honor of Saint Agnes who was beheaded in 
Rome in the year 304. Her day is January 21. 



SAN RAFAEL ARCANGEL. 




SAN RAFAEL 
"The sheltering hills sloping down towards the bay.* 



SAN RAFAEL ARCANGEL. 



"* HE mortality of Mission San P>ancisco had always 
^^ been out of all proportion to the ordinary rate. In 
^^ reply to the Governor's request for a reason Fr. 
Ramon Abella pointed out three causes for the 
high death rate. The first reason was: A large 
percentage of the dead were children or infants who probably 
lacked proper treatment and care on the part of their mothers. 
The second cause, was the change from a wild to a civilized life, 
and the third reason : the unfortunate Indians were constitution- 
ally debilitated by venereal diseases. Fr. Perfect Sarria fiatly 
declares such to be the case. The proximate cause of the many 
deaths at Mission San Francisco was the inclemency of the cli- 
mate which a people so constitutionally weak could not endure. 
There was serious talk of moving the Mission across the bay, 
forsaking the present site. Governor Sola finally suggested 
transferring a part of the mission population as an experiment. 
A small number were accordingly sent, greatly to the benefit of 
their health. However, some neophytes died there without 
receiving the Sacrament, so Fr. Gil y Toboada offered to go and 
live among them. It was therefore resolved to found a rancho 
with a chapel, baptistry and cemetery under the title of San 
Rafael Arcangel, whose name expresses "the healing of God" in 
order that the Saint might care for their bodies as well as their 
souls. Although the ceremonies were much the same as at the 



156 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

founding of a mission, the name "mission" was not used in con- 
nection with the place although later on San Rafael was made a 
mission. It is situated eighteen miles north of San Francisco. 

Fr. Perfect Sarria reported to Fr. Presidente Payeras, "The 
foundation of San Rafael was begun on December 14, 181 7 by 
Fr. Abella, Fr. Duran, Fr. Luis Toboada and myself. We blessed 
and raised the cross at the time of Vespers and on the day holy 
Mass was sung with music and the Word of God was announced 
in both languages. In the afternoon there were twenty-six 
children baptized. There are about two hundred gentiles for 
instruction." 

In 1 8 18 there were about five hundred neophytes and a large 
building was constructed, including church, priest's house and 
all apartments required. It was eighty-seven feet long, forty-two 
feet wide and eighteen feet high with a corridor of tules. Later 
on Fr. Payeras visited the Mission. 

In 1823 many neophytes were sent to the last Mission to be 
founded — San Francisco Solano, yet still the population of San 
Rafael continued to increase, reaching in 1828 eleven hundred 
and fort}'. 

Under the care of Fr. Mercado a friar from Zacatecas, much 
trouble was experienced with the Indians. 

When the secularization took place the Mission showed a 
valuation above all debts of $15,000. Many head of sheep and 
cattle were distributed to the Indians who now went back to the 
mountains. In its seventeen years of history the statistics show 
eighteen hundred and seventy-three baptisms, five hundred and 
forty marriages and six hundred and ninety-eight deaths, a fine 
record. 

From this time the ex-Mission fell into decay and readily became 
a prey to the elements. Nothing now remains but a few old 
pear trees planted by the Padres. A large modern building 



SAN RAFAEL, ARC ANGEL 157 

occupies the site and is used as an armory. No one could view 
the spot without recognizing the beauty of the sheltering hills 
sloping down toward the bay, the rich verdure and the beautiful 
trees and flowers. 



His day is October 24. 



SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO. 




SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO 
"There were many Russians at the founding.' 




SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO. 

ORE than half a century had passed since the first 
Mission in Cahfornia was founded before the site for 
the twentj'-first and last was selected — San Francisco 
Solano, so named after the great missionary to the 
Peruvian Indians. This formed the first case of an unauthorized 
founding of a mission and the attempted suppression of the Mis- 
sions San Francisco and San Rafael. 

Fr. Jose Altimira a newcomer stationed at San Francisco, 
visited the region to the north and was seemingly hypnotized by 
the mild climate and sheltered valleys in comparison to San 
Francisco. He deemed them sufficient reason for removing his 
neophytes to a locality north of San Rafael. Governor Arguello 
was appealed to and coincided with his views. 

During a visit of Fr. Perfecto Payeras in October, 1822, the 
proposition was discussed and Fr. Altimira claimed Fr. Payeras 
gave his consent and entrusted him (Fr. Altimira) with the 
choice of a site and the moving of the Mission. This, however, 
would have been impossible as no decision could have been 
reached without the approbation of the College of San Fernando 
and the eager and unexperienced friar also failed to consult the 
Fr. Presidente. 

Without the approval of Fr. Presidente Senan, Fr. Altimira 
with a deputy and nineteen men under Ensign Jose Sanchez 
embarked on June 25 for the purpose of founding the newMission. 



1 62 THE MISSIONS OF C ALIFORM A 

They explored the valleys of Sonoma, Petaluma, Napa and 
Suisun and finally on July 3 returned to Sonoma. This they 
considered the best place because of the climate and abundance 
of timber, stone and water. The next morning Juh' 4, 1823, 
Fr. Altimira raised and blessed the cross and site and sang the 
holy Mass, thus laying, although illegally, the foundation of 
Mission San Francisco Solano 

There were many Russians at the founding who pro\-ed them- 
selves very friendly to the missionaries. They donated many 
useful and ornamental articles to the new Mission. 

Fr. Presidente Senan wrote to Fr. Sarria that he was fairly 
astounded at the audacity of Fr. .\ltimira. As he lay dying at 
San Buenaventura he caused to be written a long letter of instruc- 
tion for Fr. Sarria and left the handling of the new Mission entirely 
in the latter's hands. In the meantime, Fr. Altimira with an 
escort of twelve men and a force of laborers, had on August 23 
started out for Sonoma. On the 25th they arrived and began work 
on a granary, irrigating ditch, corral and other necessary struc- 
tures. Work proceeded speedily for a few days when the reproof 
from the new Presidente, Sarria, arrived and changed the situa- 
tion. Bancroft describes Fr. Altimira's frame of mind after 
reading the letter as "furious." The angry young friar appealed 
to the Governor, who in turn wrote to Fr. Presidente Sarria. 

In the Presidente's reply from San Juan Bautista where a 
conference of Fathers had been held a logical discussion on all 
the points was presented. Governor Arguello could not answer 
the Presidente's arguments but tried to excuse himself by reason 
of the friars' inactivity in the north. He consented however to a 
compromise suggested by the Fr. Presidente, whereby the new 
foundation should continue as a Mission, although he declared 
the deputation "'a grave injury contrary to the regular order." 

Fr. Sarria also appointed Fr. Altimira the regular missionary 



SAX F RAX CI SCO SO LAX 163 

of the new Mission subject to the appro\'al of the college, but 
neither San Francisco de Asis nor San Rafael were to be sup- 
pressed. Moreover, Fr. Altimira should continue as associate 
minister of the former. Neophytes from the Sonoma region 
might ^'oluntarily attend either of the three northernmost 
missions and new converts might choose the mission they pre- 
ferred. \"ery soon, however, Fr. Sarria had to report that 
Indians were running away from Sonoma because they disliked 
Fr. Altimira 's ways. 

The Indians of this Mission represented thirty-fi\'e different 
tribes yet they worked together harmoniously and in 1830 were 
possessed of over eight thousand cattle, sheep and horses. Their 
crops averaged nearly two thousand bushels of grain per year. 
The number of baptisms recorded in the twelve years before 
secularization was over thirteen hundred. 

In 1834 the Mission was secularized by M. G. Vallejo who 
quarreled with Fr. Quijas who at once retired to San Rafael. 
The movable property was distributed to the Indians and they 
were allowed to live on their old ranchen'as. 

The pagan Indians so harassed the mission Indians that the 
latter placed all their stock in General Vallejo's charge, asking 
him to care for it for them. They had great faith in him and he 
seems to have acted fairly by them. Vallejo made friends with 
the native chief, Solano, and used his influence with the Indians 
for peace. 

The Mission had a population in 1832 of nine hundred and 
thirty-six souls. Much trouble was experienced with horse 
thieves in 1838, and following that smallpox broke out and thou- 
sands of northern Indians were swept away. The dreadful 
epidemic came from the settlement of Fort Ross. Fortunately 
it did not spread south of the bay region. 

In 1880 the Mission and grounds were sold to a German named 



i64 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 

Schocken for $3,000 who used it for a storehouse for wine and hay. 
In 1903 it was purchased by W. R. Hearst for $5,000 and later 
transferred to the State of Cahfornia and accepted by the Legis- 
lature. The ground plot was one hundred and sixty-six feet by 
one hundred and lifty feet. It will be preserved as a valuable 
landmark forever. It is claimed that General Vallejo built the 
tower in 1835. 

The chapel is sixteen by thirty-six feet and roofed with shingles, 
while the vestibule is about fifteen feet square with stairs leading 
to the choir loft. The interior condition can well be imagined 
after twenty-five years of use as a hay barn. A temporary wooden 
roof now shelters the adjoining building which is ninety-five 
feet long, with the roof overhanging on the side to cover the 
corridor, which was built in the plainest, simplest fashion. 

The Woman's Club of Sonoma have been most active in the 
restoration of the Mission. 



The Mission was named in honor of the great missionary to the 
Peruvian Indians. 
His day is July 24. 



MISSION CHAPELS OR ASISTENCIAS. 




PALA 
"The Bells of Pala." 



MISSION CHAPELS OR ASISTENCIAS. 



"^HE missionaries always rode or walked to the dis- 
g^ tant rancherias which had no settled pastor. The 
buildings erected there for worship were called 
chapels or asistencias. Some of these buildings still 
remain in use while many others are in ruins or 
have completely disappeared. In 1S03 a chapel was built at a 
rancheria called by the Indians Mescaltitlan and by the Spaniards 
San Miguel, six miles from Santa Barbara. It was of adobe 
sixty-five feet by twenty-seven feet. In 1807 eighteen adobe 
buildings were erected here. Near San Luis Obispo was a ranch- 
eria known as San ]Miguelito,and here in 1809 the Governor gave 
his approval for the erection of a chapel. San Luis had several 
such vistas. 

The cornerstone of the church of "Our Lady of the Angels" 
in Los Angeles was laid in 18 14 by Fr. Gil of San Gabriel but it 
was not completed and dedicated until December 8, 1822. 
Equally familiar to the people of today is the Presidio Church of 
Monterey, built in 1794. It marks the place of worship of the 
first christian dwellers of Monterey before Fr. Junipero Serra 
took his neophytes to the location in Carmel Valley to avoid the 
corruption of the soldiers. 

About 182 1 the Chapel of Santa Isabel, forty miles from San 
Diego, was built, together with several houses and a granary. 
Four hundred and fifty baptized Indians were living here and this 



i68 THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORXIA 

asistencia greatly aided San Diego in controlling the hostile 
Indians of the mountains. 

The chapel of Mesa Grande lies about eleven miles from Santa 
Isabel, up a steep mountain side. It was first constructed of 
green boughs and the altar decorated with muslin draperies and 
ornaments of paper and ribbon. 

The chapel of San Bernardino was founded by Fr. Dumetz 
of San Gabriel in 1810, who, with a band of soldiers and Indian 
neophytes, set out earl_\- in May to find a location and establish 
a station. 

The early travelers crossing the Colorado desert were often in 
need of food and succor before San Gabriel could be reached, and 
this station nearer the desert was long needed. A fertile rancheria 
was found, populous with Indians and well watered. The 
valley and the Indians both bore the name of Gauchama, meaning 
"the place of abundance of food and water." Here the station 
was established. The Indians were very trustworthy, and the 
chapel station and a large quantity of supplies were left in their 
charge. 

One of the ranchos of San Luis Obispo was that of Santa 
Margarita, on the north side of Sierra Santa Lucia. There 
appears no authentic date of the foundmg of the chapel }-et it 
is a most interesting and beautiful structure, even in its ruins of 
today. It had an exquisite and rare outlook. Situated on a 
knoll near the Santa Margarita River the foreground sloped 
gently to the foothills and further beyond rose the Santa Lucia 
heights. The structure contained eight rooms besides the chapel 
which was forty by thirty feet in size and situated at the southwest 
end and the walls were three feet thick. There were odd and very 
beautiful windows which inclines one to believe there existed a 
large Indian population. The white cement used to hold the 
sandstone and red bricks together is still hard and tenacious. 



MlSSrOX CHAPELS OR ASISTEXCIAS 



169 



A large and \alucd rancheria existed at Santa Isabel, a few 
miles from Mission San Miguel and below the hot springs the 
remains of a large dam still exist which was built by the Fathers 
for irrigation purposes. 

Perhaps the best known of all the asistencias and often pic- 
tured as a mission is the chapel of Pala, with its picturesque 
campanile. It was built as you have learned by the indefatigable 
Fr. Peyri in 1816, about twenty miles from San Luis Rey to which 
it belonged. 

At the time of the secularization of San Luis Rey, Pala suffered 
also and was abandoned to the devouring homesteader. In time 
it was 'homesteaded,' but the chapel and cemetery were ulti- 
mately deeded back to the church. In the chapter on San Luis 
Rey you have read of the restoration. The "Bells of Pala" are 
interwoven with much romance. Pala is now the home of the 
Palatingwa (Hot Springs) Indians, recently evicted from Warner's 
ranch. 

Henry Chapman Ford, a landscape artist who resided for 
about twenty years in Santa Barbara, has left many line pictures 
of asistencias, among them being "Pala Mission," "San Ber- 
nardino," "San Marco," "Santa Margarita," the Presidio church 
of Monterey and the Plaza church of Los Angeles. 




AN INDIAN LAMENT. 



AN INDIAN LAMENT. 



The day is done. Across the plain 
The evening shadows slowly creep; 
And twilight flings her violet robe 
To lull the weary earth to sleep. 

The birds fly homeward to the nest, 
Crooning a lullaby to the day; 
Faint voices of the evening wake 
And softly on my heart-strings play. 

As in a dream, I see once more 
The lordly chiefs in council sit. 
I hear again their voices chant 
Our legends old — by firelight lit. 

Their words of council — wisely given — 
Come echoing back o'er barren years. 
Alas! The pledge was unfulfilled 
And faith has given place to fears. 

The God-given lands are ours no more, 
Our people scattered far and wide; 
The fleet deer and the buffalo 
No longer speed our chase beside. 



174 



THE MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA 



An ancient race of nature's men 
Has fallen to a low estate. 
And answering my protesting cry, 
The chill of evening wails, "Too late.' 



I fold my arms on the aching breast, 
I turn my face to the setting sun. 
I wait in patience the call to rest, 
'Tis the Father's will. The day is done. 




